Hacettepe University, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Subdepartment of Cosmetology, 06100 Sihhiye, Ankara, Turkey.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2001 Aug;23(4):211-8. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00089.x.
The aim of this study was to determine the effects of the vehicles on the release and permeation of the UV filters. Therefore, the release and permeation of lipophilic oxybenzone and hydrophilic sulisobenzone were investigated from four different vehicles; petrolatum, o/w and w/o emulsions and hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) gel. Both release and permeation studies were performed by using glass diffusion cells. The vehicle in which oxybenzone has the highest released amount was petrolatum, whereas the highest released amount for sulisobenzone was obtained in HEC gel. The difference between the released amounts of oxybenzone in the other three vehicles was not significant but the released amount of sulisobenzone was least in petrolatum, whereas no significant difference was seen between o/w and w/o emulsions. The results of skin permeation experiments were similar those from release experiments. The order of permeated amounts from highest to lowest was petrolatum, o/w emulsion and HEC gel for oxybenzone, and HEC gel, o/w emulsion and petrolatum for sulisobenzone. These results demonstrate that permeation of the UV filters can be optimized by a suitable vehicle. As the percutaneous absorption of sunscreens should be avoided, the vehicle suggested for oxybenzone and sulisobenzone is o/w emulsion because of its permeation properties and cosmetic acceptance.
本研究旨在确定载体对紫外线滤光剂释放和渗透的影响。因此，从四种不同的载体（凡士林、O/W 和 W/O 乳液以及羟乙基纤维素（HEC）凝胶）研究了亲脂性氧苯酮和亲水性磺酰基苯并唑的释放和渗透。释放和渗透研究均采用玻璃扩散池进行。氧苯酮释放量最高的载体是凡士林，而 HEC 凝胶中磺酰基苯并唑的释放量最高。其他三种载体中氧苯酮的释放量差异不显著，但在凡士林中磺酰基苯并唑的释放量最少，而 O/W 和 W/O 乳液之间未见显著差异。皮肤渗透实验的结果与释放实验的结果相似。从最高到最低的渗透量顺序为氧苯酮的凡士林、O/W 乳液和 HEC 凝胶，以及磺酰基苯并唑的 HEC 凝胶、O/W 乳液和凡士林。这些结果表明，通过合适的载体可以优化紫外线滤光剂的渗透。由于应避免防晒霜的经皮吸收，因此建议使用 O/W 乳液作为氧苯酮和磺酰基苯并唑的载体，因为其具有渗透性能和化妆品接受度。
