Graf Rüdiger, Kock Michael, Bock Andreas, Schubert-Zsilavecz Manfred, Steinhilber Dieter, Kaufmann Roland, Gassenmeier Thomas, Beschmann Heike, Bernd August, Kippenberger Stefan
Phenion GmbH & Co. KG, Düsseldorf, Germany.
Exp Dermatol. 2009 Apr;18(4):370-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00798.x. Epub 2008 Oct 4.
Skin keratinocytes are subjected to changing osmotic conditions and evolved counteracting mechanisms. Particularly, the expression of osmolyte transporters serves for the maintenance of cell volume in a hypertonic environment. In this study, we show that hyperosmotic stress significantly decreases the proliferation in HaCaT keratinocytes. Supplementation of the culture medium with the amino acids glycine, sarcosine, betaine, taurine and proline restored the proliferation indicating osmoprotective properties of these substances. Amino acids are highly polar molecules and therefore unable to penetrate into deeper epidermal layers after topical application. Thus, we utilized a prodrug concept in which the tested amino acids are coupled to a lipophilic moiety. Ethyl glycinate as a first model compound also showed an osmoprotective effect. In addition, improved penetration of the glycine derivative into deeper epidermal layers could be demonstrated. The prodrug concept was further developed by using the lipid soluble antioxidant alpha-tocopherol as a lipophilic moiety. The derivatives d,l-alpha-tocopheryl-(mono-) glycinate (TMG) and d,l-alpha-tocopheryl-(mono-) prolinate caused an increase in proliferation of HaCaT keratinocytes under salt stress and a decrease in apoptosis induced by hypertonic conditions. Furthermore, the osmoprotective effect of d,l-TMG could be corroborated in normal human keratinocytes. Therefore, it seems feasible that amino acids and their lipophilic derivatives may help to improve the osmotic balance and the hydration of skin. Clinical and cosmetic indications such as atopic eczema, UV exposed skin or aged skin may benefit from this new concept.
皮肤角质形成细胞会受到不断变化的渗透条件影响,并进化出了相应的对抗机制。特别是,渗透溶质转运蛋白的表达有助于在高渗环境中维持细胞体积。在本研究中,我们发现高渗应激显著降低了HaCaT角质形成细胞的增殖。在培养基中添加氨基酸甘氨酸、肌氨酸、甜菜碱、牛磺酸和脯氨酸可恢复增殖,表明这些物质具有渗透保护特性。氨基酸是高度极性的分子,因此局部应用后无法渗透到更深的表皮层。因此,我们采用了前药概念,即将测试的氨基酸与亲脂性部分偶联。甘氨酸乙酯作为第一个模型化合物也显示出渗透保护作用。此外,还可以证明甘氨酸衍生物能更好地渗透到更深的表皮层。通过使用脂溶性抗氧化剂α-生育酚作为亲脂性部分,进一步发展了前药概念。衍生物d,l-α-生育酚基-(单)甘氨酸酯(TMG)和d,l-α-生育酚基-(单)脯氨酸酯在盐胁迫下可使HaCaT角质形成细胞的增殖增加,并减少高渗条件诱导的细胞凋亡。此外,d,l-TMG在正常人角质形成细胞中的渗透保护作用也得到了证实。因此,氨基酸及其亲脂性衍生物可能有助于改善皮肤的渗透平衡和水合作用,这似乎是可行的。临床和美容适应症,如特应性皮炎、紫外线暴露皮肤或老化皮肤,可能会从这一新概念中受益。