Laboratory of Human Movement Studies, EA3608, Faculty of Sport Sciences and Physical Education, Lille 2 University, France.
Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2009 Jun;41(6):1303-10. doi: 10.1249/MSS.0b013e318195107d.
Considering the development of rock climbing as a competitive sport, we aimed at investigating the influence of four recovery methods on subsequent maximal climbing performance.
In a randomly assigned crossover design, 13 female well-trained climbers (27.1 +/- 8.9 yr) came to the climbing center on four occasions separated by 1 wk. On each occasion, they had to perform two climbing tests (C1 and C2) until volitional exhaustion on a prepracticed route (overhanging wall, level 6b). These two tests were separated by 20 min of recovery. Four recovery methods were used in randomized order: passive recovery, active recovery (cycle ergometer, 30-40 W), electromyostimulation on the forearm muscles (bisymmetric TENS current), or cold water immersion of the forearms and arms (three periods of 5 min at 15 +/- 1 degrees C). Climbing tests' performance was reflected by the number of arm movements and climb duration.
Using active recovery and cold water immersion, performance at C2 was maintained in comparison with C1, whereas C2 performance was impaired compared with C1 (P< 0.01) using electromyostimulation and passive recovery (recovery method-by-climb interaction, P < 0.05). Blood lactate decreased during recovery, with the greatest decrease occurring during active recovery (time-by-recovery method interaction, P < 0.001). Arms and forearms' skin temperatures were lower throughout the cold water immersion compared with the other three methods (P < 0.001).
Active recovery and cold water immersion are two means of preserving performance when repeating acute exhausting climbing trails in female climbers. These positive effects are accompanied by a greater lactate removal and a decrease in subcutaneous tissues temperatures, respectively.
考虑到攀岩运动的发展是一项竞技运动，我们旨在研究四种恢复方法对后续最大攀岩表现的影响。
在一项随机交叉设计中，13 名训练有素的女性攀岩者（27.1 +/- 8.9 岁）在一周内分四次来到攀岩中心。在每一次，她们都要在一条预先练习的路线（悬垂墙，6b 级）上进行两次攀岩测试（C1 和 C2），直到达到自愿性疲劳。这两个测试之间有 20 分钟的恢复时间。四种恢复方法以随机顺序使用：被动恢复、主动恢复（自行车测力计，30-40 W）、前臂肌肉的电肌刺激（双对称 TENS 电流）或前臂和手臂的冷水浸泡（三个 5 分钟的周期，温度为 15 +/- 1 度）。攀岩测试的表现通过手臂运动的次数和攀爬持续时间来反映。
与 C1 相比，使用主动恢复和冷水浸泡，C2 的表现得以维持，而与 C1 相比，使用电肌刺激和被动恢复，C2 的表现受损（恢复方法-攀爬交互作用，P < 0.05）。恢复期间血乳酸降低，主动恢复期间降低最大（时间-恢复方法交互作用，P < 0.001）。与其他三种方法相比，整个冷水浸泡过程中手臂和前臂的皮肤温度都较低（P < 0.001）。
在女性攀岩者重复急性耗尽的攀岩路线时，主动恢复和冷水浸泡是保持表现的两种方法。这些积极的影响分别伴随着乳酸去除的增加和皮下组织温度的降低。
