Langer Kaja, Simon Christian, Wiemeyer Josef
Laboratory for Movement & Exercise Science, Institute of Sports Science, Department of Human Sciences, Technical University of Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany.
Front Sports Act Living. 2023 May 9;5:1130812. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1130812. eCollection 2023.
Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.
由于攀岩运动越来越受欢迎，相应的诊断方法对科学研究和实践都变得越发重要。本综述旨在概述用于评估攀岩运动中表现、力量、耐力和柔韧性的不同诊断测试及测量方法的质量。我们在PubMed和SPORT Discus数据库中进行了系统的文献检索，查找包含定量方法以及用于测量攀岩和抱石运动中不同形式的力量、耐力、柔韧性或表现的测试的研究。如果研究符合以下条件则被纳入：a) 研究对象为具有代表性的人类抱石者和/或攀岩者样本；b) 包含至少一项测试的详细信息；c) 为随机对照试验、队列研究、交叉研究、干预研究或病例研究。共有156项研究被纳入本综述。从这些研究中提取了有关受试者特征以及所有相关测试的实施情况和质量的数据。将具有相似练习的测试进行分组，并将以下信息汇总并以标准化表格形式呈现：a) 测量值；b) 单位；c) 受试者特征（性别和能力水平）；d) 质量标准（客观性、可靠性、有效性）。总共识别出63种不同的测试，其中一些测试包含不同的实施方式。这清楚地表明，在攀岩诊断中，针对力量、耐力或柔韧性的测试没有统一或标准的程序。此外，只有少数研究报告了测试质量数据和样本特征的详细信息。这不仅使得比较测试结果变得困难，同时也无法给出精确的测试建议。尽管如此，对当前研究现状的这一概述有助于未来创建更统一的测试组合。
