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防晒因子:全球混淆。

Sun protection factors: world wide confusion.

机构信息

Ciba Inc., Basel, Switzerland.

出版信息

Br J Dermatol. 2009 Nov;161 Suppl 3:13-24. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09506.x.

Abstract

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is a very popular instrument in the marketing of sunscreens. Unfortunately it is often not understood how sunscreens work and where the limitations of the SPF are. A lot of aspects of the SPF are confusing, e.g. the race for higher and higher numbers, the effect on SPF when less sunscreen is applied and if sunscreen should be used at all because they may block the Vitamin D synthesis. All this has a negative impact on compliance by the consumer or patient which is the most important influence factor in sun protection. This paper explains how sunscreens work, how the SPF is determined and where the limitations of the current methods exist. The dynamic view of 'UV radiation applied' and the 'UV dose transmitted' through the sunscreen onto the skin as well as onto a substrate in vitro help in the understanding and are also promising approaches in the in vitro assessment. A variation of the in vitro assessment of a sunscreen is the in silico calculation based on the absorption spectrum of the UV filters and an assumption about the irregular sunscreen film on the skin. The sunscreen simulator program can be used to determine how the SPF is affected by applying smaller amounts of sunscreen. Besides the SPF, UVA protection is also discussed. The degree of UVA protection determines the quality of the overall UV protection, whereas the SPF is an indication of the quantity of protection. Furthermore other protection factors such as IPF, iSPF, RSF and p53, and the inhibition of the Vitamin D3 synthesis by sunscreens are also discussed. In conclusion it is shown that the accuracy and robustness of the SPF and other Protection Factors will improve significantly with the availability of true broad-spectrum sunscreens rather than conventional UVB-biased sunscreens, because uniform protection profiles lead to protection independent of the action spectrum of the endpoint and the UV-radiation source.

摘要

防晒因子(SPF)是防晒霜营销中非常流行的工具。不幸的是,人们往往不了解防晒霜的工作原理以及 SPF 的局限性。SPF 的很多方面都令人困惑,例如追求更高的数值、防晒霜用量减少时对 SPF 的影响,以及是否应该使用防晒霜,因为它们可能会阻止维生素 D 的合成。所有这些都对消费者或患者的依从性产生负面影响,而依从性是防晒的最重要影响因素。本文解释了防晒霜的工作原理、SPF 的测定方法以及当前方法的局限性。“应用的紫外线辐射”和“透过防晒霜传输到皮肤和体外基质的紫外线剂量”的动态观点有助于理解,并且在体外评估中也是很有前途的方法。防晒霜体外评估的一种变化是基于 UV 滤光片的吸收光谱和对皮肤不规则防晒霜膜的假设的体外计算。防晒霜模拟器程序可用于确定涂抹较少防晒霜如何影响 SPF。除了 SPF 之外,还讨论了 UVA 保护。UVA 保护程度决定了整体 UV 保护的质量,而 SPF 则是保护量的指示。此外,还讨论了其他保护因素,如 IPF、iSPF、RSF 和 p53,以及防晒霜对维生素 D3 合成的抑制作用。总之,结果表明,随着真正的广谱防晒霜而不是传统的 UVB 偏向防晒霜的出现,SPF 和其他保护因素的准确性和稳健性将显著提高,因为均匀的保护谱导致与终点的作用光谱和紫外线辐射源无关的保护。

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