Pavicic Tatjana, Gauglitz Gerd G, Lersch Peter, Schwach-Abdellaoui Khadija, Malle Birgitte, Korting Hans Christian, Farwick Mike
Department of Dermatology and Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich, Germany.
J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000.
Due to its strong water-binding potential, hyaluronic acid (HA) is a well-known active ingredient for cosmetic applications. Native HA is proposed to help the skin to retain and maintain elasticity, turgor and moisture.
To observe the efficacy of topical application of 0.1% hyaluronan formulations of different molecular weights (MW) (50, 130, 300, 800 and 2000 kDa, respectively) in the periocular area as anti-wrinkle treatment.
Seventy-six female subjects between 30 and 60 years of age with clinical signs of periocular wrinkles applied one of the formulations twice-daily to the area of interest in a randomized fashion for 60 days. Around the other eye, a vehicle control cream was applied. Measurements of skin hydration and skin elasticity were performed before treatment, 30 and 60 days thereafter. At similar time points negative replicas were taken and evaluated by semi-automated morphometry.
All HA-based creams utilized in this study demonstrated a significant improvement in skin hydration and overall elasticity values (R2) when compared to placebo. Measurements of wrinkle depth using mean roughness (Ra) and maximum roughness (Rz) values revealed significant improvement in the 130 and the 50 kDa HA group after 60 days of treatment compared to placebo-treated area.
Topical application of all 0.1% HA formulations used in this study led to significant improvement in skin hydration and elasticity. Application of low-molecular-weight (LMW) HA was associated with significant reduction of wrinkle depth, which may be due to better penetration abilities of LMW HA.
由于其强大的水结合潜力，透明质酸（HA）是一种广为人知的用于化妆品的活性成分。天然HA被认为有助于皮肤保持和维持弹性、饱满度和水分。
观察局部应用不同分子量（MW）（分别为50、130、300、800和2000 kDa）的0.1%透明质酸制剂在眼周区域作为抗皱治疗的疗效。
76名年龄在30至60岁之间有眼周皱纹临床体征的女性受试者，将其中一种制剂以随机方式每天两次涂抹于感兴趣区域，持续60天。在另一只眼睛周围涂抹赋形剂对照乳膏。在治疗前、治疗后30天和60天进行皮肤水合作用和皮肤弹性测量。在相似时间点采集阴性复制品并通过半自动形态测量法进行评估。
与安慰剂相比，本研究中使用的所有基于HA的乳膏在皮肤水合作用和整体弹性值（R2）方面均显示出显著改善。使用平均粗糙度（Ra）和最大粗糙度（Rz）值测量皱纹深度显示，与安慰剂治疗区域相比，130 kDa和50 kDa HA组在治疗60天后皱纹有显著改善。
本研究中使用的所有0.1% HA制剂的局部应用均导致皮肤水合作用和弹性显著改善。低分子量（LMW）HA的应用与皱纹深度显著降低相关，这可能是由于LMW HA具有更好的渗透能力。
