Dell'Acqua Giorgio, Schweikert Kuno
Induchem AG, Industriestrasse 8a, CH-8604, Volketswil, Switzerland.
J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Jan-Feb;63(1):1-13.
Vitamin B5 and its derivatives are well known in personal care applications and are often used in wound healing and soothing compositions. However, little is known about the biochemical pathways involved. A better knowledge of these pathways would help to understand some of the mechanisms of action and suggest further applications. We have investigated the transformation of D-panthenyl triacetate (PTA) into D-panthenol (PAN) and its skin diffusion on human volunteers by Raman spectroscopy. Additionally, we have utilized human skin biopsies and quantitative RT-PCR to demonstrate the effect of PTA compared to PAN on 27 metabolic markers when introduced at 2% in a cosmetic emulsion. Then we conducted a double-blind clinical study to measure the effect of PTA compared to PAN on wound healing, measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL), when incorporated at 3% in a cosmetic emulsion. Results show de-acetylation of PTA into PAN and an increased activity of PTA compared to PNA over time in the skin. Metabolic marker analysis demonstrates stimulation of energetic pathways such as glycolysis and the citric acid cycle, but also of synthesis pathways such as isoprenoids and lipid synthesis, by PTA and PAN. Finally, the clinical study demonstrates a statistically significant effect by PTA on wound healing after 72 hours when compared to a saline treatment. Statistical significance was not achieved by PAN or a placebo treatment. Due to the differences between PTA and PAN action, different applications in personal care products can be suggested. Moreover, PTA seems more effective than PAN for a long-lasting wound healing action.
维生素B5及其衍生物在个人护理应用中广为人知，常用于伤口愈合和舒缓组合物中。然而，对于其中涉及的生化途径却知之甚少。更好地了解这些途径将有助于理解一些作用机制并提出进一步的应用建议。我们通过拉曼光谱研究了D - 泛醇三乙酸酯（PTA）在人类志愿者皮肤上转化为D - 泛醇（PAN）及其皮肤扩散情况。此外，我们利用人体皮肤活检和定量逆转录聚合酶链反应（qRT - PCR）来证明，当以2%的浓度添加到化妆品乳液中时，PTA与PAN相比对27种代谢标志物的影响。然后，我们进行了一项双盲临床研究，以测量当以3%的浓度添加到化妆品乳液中时，PTA与PAN相比对伤口愈合的影响，通过经表皮水分流失（TEWL）来衡量。结果表明，PTA在皮肤中随时间转化为PAN并脱乙酰化，且与PNA相比，PTA的活性随时间增加。代谢标志物分析表明，PTA和PAN刺激了糖酵解和柠檬酸循环等能量途径，以及类异戊二烯和脂质合成等合成途径。最后，临床研究表明，与盐水处理相比，PTA在72小时后对伤口愈合具有统计学上的显著效果。PAN或安慰剂处理未达到统计学显著性。由于PTA和PAN作用的差异，可以提出在个人护理产品中的不同应用建议。此外，PTA在持久的伤口愈合作用方面似乎比PAN更有效。
