Rawlings A V, Bielfeldt S, Lombard K J
AVR Consulting Ltd, Northwich Cheshire, UK.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Sep 23. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x.
Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to be totally pressure related. However, studies have demonstrated that the direct effects of hydration on keratinocytes and fibroblasts contribute to the reduction in hypertrophic scarring. Now it is well known that occlusion can regulate epidermal cytokine and growth factor production; changes in profibrotic and antifibrotic factors have been established. As a result it is to be expected that moisturisers may improve the signs and symptoms of scars. As striae have been suggested to be anatomically similar to scars and since it is well established that paracrine signalling occurs in skin it is expected that striae have similar stratum corneum issues. While one cannot exclude the effects of some of the ingredients used in the products, several studies are reported in this review which demonstrates that moisturisation is a key component to reducing the clinical signs and symptoms of scars and striae. This is a good example of how knowledge of corneobiology leads to corneotherapies for these skin condition problems. The paper is being written in memory of Professor Johann Wiechers who, before he died tragically in November 2011, performed two of the reported studies together with colleagues. © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.
众所周知，疤痕的角质层功能失调。已有报道称经表皮水分流失增加，角质层电容和电导降低。封闭疗法是改善疤痕体征和症状的一种众所周知的方法。直到最近，人们一直认为这完全与压力有关。然而，研究表明，水合作用对角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞的直接作用有助于减少增生性疤痕。现在人们已经知道，封闭可以调节表皮细胞因子和生长因子的产生；促纤维化和抗纤维化因子的变化已经得到证实。因此，可以预期保湿剂可能会改善疤痕的体征和症状。由于萎缩纹在解剖学上被认为与疤痕相似，而且众所周知旁分泌信号在皮肤中发生，因此预计萎缩纹也有类似的角质层问题。虽然不能排除产品中某些成分的影响，但本综述报道的几项研究表明，保湿是减少疤痕和萎缩纹临床体征和症状的关键因素。这是一个很好的例子，说明角质生物学知识如何导致针对这些皮肤问题的角质疗法。本文是为纪念约翰·维切斯教授而撰写的，他在2011年11月不幸去世之前，与同事一起进行了两项报道的研究。© 2012 化妆品科学家协会和法国化妆品协会。
