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局部应用 1-碳酰胺基-L-脯氨酸(CLP)改善鱼尾纹。

Improvement of crow's feet lines by topical application of 1-carbamimidoyl-L-proline (CLP).

机构信息

Department of Dermatology, Tokyo Women's Medical University, Tochigi, Japan.

出版信息

Eur J Dermatol. 2013 Apr 1;23(2):195-201. doi: 10.1684/ejd.2013.1964.

Abstract

Wrinkles, one of the characteristics of chronic sun-damaged and/or aged skin, are associated with psychological distress. Apart from the deterioration of collagen and elastic fibers in the dermis, which induces the loss of skin elasticity, it has been recently proposed that decreased flexibility or elasticity of the stratum corneum (SC) is also correlated with wrinkle formation. The elasticity of the SC has been shown to be regulated, at least in part, by the amounts and types of amino acids. To evaluate the ability of our newly developed amino acid-derivative (1-carbamimidoyl-L-proline; CLP), which recovers the elastic properties of the SC ex vivo, to improve wrinkles, a clinical test was performed with 126 Japanese female subjects aged 32-50 years who had crow's feet lines on their faces. Three eligible dermatologists evaluated the study according to authorized grades by the Japanese Cosmetic Science Society and scored the subjects who were much improved or improved as 29.7% and 57.8% of all CLP-treated subjects at 4 and 8 weeks, respectively. In contrast, only 1.5% and 8.1% of subjects improved with the placebo lotion at 4 and 8 weeks, respectively. These results suggest a significant efficacy of CLP to improve wrinkles. In parallel with the dermatologists' assessments, skin surface roughness in the CLP-treated group was significantly reduced after treatment with CLP for 4 and 8 weeks compared to the placebo-treated group. The sum of these data suggests that CLP is a promising and useful ingredient for the improvement of wrinkles through its ability to enhance the elasticity of the SC.

摘要

皱纹是慢性日晒损伤和/或老化皮肤的特征之一,与心理困扰有关。除了真皮中胶原蛋白和弹性纤维的恶化导致皮肤弹性丧失外,最近还提出角质层(SC)的柔韧性或弹性降低也与皱纹形成有关。已经表明 SC 的弹性至少部分受到氨基酸的数量和类型的调节。为了评估我们新开发的氨基酸衍生物(1-氨甲酰基-L-脯氨酸;CLP)的能力,该衍生物可恢复 SC 的弹性特性,从而改善皱纹,对 126 名年龄在 32-50 岁之间、面部有鱼尾纹的日本女性进行了临床测试。三位合格的皮肤科医生根据日本化妆品科学学会的授权等级对该研究进行了评估,并对改善程度较高或改善程度较高的受试者进行了评分,在 4 周和 8 周时,分别为所有 CLP 治疗受试者的 29.7%和 57.8%。相比之下,在 4 周和 8 周时,安慰剂乳液分别仅使 1.5%和 8.1%的受试者改善。这些结果表明 CLP 具有显著的改善皱纹的功效。与皮肤科医生的评估一致,在使用 CLP 治疗 4 周和 8 周后,CLP 治疗组的皮肤表面粗糙度显著降低,而安慰剂治疗组则没有。这些数据表明,CLP 通过增强 SC 的弹性,是改善皱纹的一种有前途和有用的成分。

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