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含肌酸、瓜拉那和甘油的面部护理制剂中的肌酸经皮渗透与男性受试者的有效抗皱和平滑效果相关。

Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects.

机构信息

Department of Skin Biology and Skin Structure, Beiersdorf AG Research and Development, Unnastrasse 48, Hamburg, Germany.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2011 Dec;10(4):273-81. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00579.x.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest that the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during aging.

AIMS

To investigate the potential of topically applied creatine to improve the clinical signs of skin aging by stimulating dermal collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo.

PATIENTS/METHODS: Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels. In a single-center, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana extract, and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features.

RESULTS

Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine-containing formulation for 6 weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes.

CONCLUSIONS

In summary, creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin aging.

摘要

背景

皮肤细胞外基质为皮肤提供稳定性和结构。然而,随着年龄的增长,其主要成分胶原蛋白会发生变性,导致皮肤弹性逐渐下降,皱纹逐渐形成。先前的研究表明,细胞能量的减少导致皮肤胶原蛋白合成减少,从而导致衰老。

目的

通过体外和体内刺激真皮胶原合成,研究局部应用肌酸改善皮肤老化临床体征的潜力。

患者/方法:采用猪皮离体模型进行渗透实验。体外培养成纤维细胞填充胶原凝胶,研究肌酸对真皮胶原基因表达和原胶原合成的影响。在一项单中心、对照研究中,43 名男性白种人应用含有肌酸、瓜拉那提取物和甘油的面部护理制剂,以确定其对面部拓扑特征的影响。

结果

与未处理的对照细胞相比,补充肌酸的培养人真皮成纤维细胞在基因表达和蛋白水平上均显示出胶原合成的刺激作用。在皮肤渗透实验中,局部应用的肌酸迅速到达真皮。此外,与基线相比,局部应用含有肌酸的制剂 6 周可显著减少下巴区域松弛脸颊的强度。临床实时评分也证实了这一结果,显示鱼尾纹和眼睛下皱纹明显减少。

结论

总之,肌酸是一种有益于预防和治疗人类皮肤衰老的外用活性成分。

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