Department of Food, Bioprocessing and Nutrition Sciences, Plants for Human Health Institute, North Carolina State University, Kannapolis, NC 28081, U.S.A.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Aug;35(4):394-401. doi: 10.1111/ics.12057. Epub 2013 Jun 6.
Natural botanical agents that are antimicrobial, or that modulate skin hyperpigmentation via tyrosinase inhibition, are increasingly sought in the cosmetic industry.
In this study, an efficient tactic is demonstrated for concentrating and stabilizing skin-beneficial bioactive compounds from muscadine grape and blackcurrant juice or muscadine pomace, into hemp flour (HF), hemp protein isolate (HPI) and soy protein isolate (SPI) matrices suitable for cosmetic applications.
Anthocyanins were most efficiently captured from blackcurrant juice into HF (8.39 mg g(-1) ). HPI most effectively captured total phenolics from muscadine pomace (72.32 and 77.32 mg g(-1) from Noble and Carlos, respectively), while the three matrices incorporated highest levels of ellagic acid, gallic acid, and PAC B1 from Noble muscadine grape juice. The enriched matrices demonstrated effective in vitro inhibition of tyrosinase (up to 57.29% for blackcurrant juice-HPI matrix), and in general, juice sources provided greater inhibition on L-dopamine oxidation by tyrosinase than pomace sources. The polyphenol-enriched matrices effectively inhibited microbial proliferation in a screening assay against Staphylococcus aureus bacteria, whereas untreated HF, HPI or SPI did not inhibit bacterial growth.
The technology of combining and stably concentrating phytoactive polyphenols with proteins has potential use for cosmetic topical applications.
具有抗菌作用的天然植物制剂，或通过抑制酪氨酸酶来调节皮肤色素沉着的制剂，在化妆品行业中越来越受到关注。
本研究展示了一种有效的策略，可将葡萄和黑加仑汁或麝香葡萄渣中的皮肤有益生物活性化合物浓缩和稳定到适合化妆品应用的大麻粉（HF）、大麻蛋白分离物（HPI）和大豆蛋白分离物（SPI）基质中。
黑加仑汁中的花色苷最有效地被 HF 捕获（8.39mg/g）。HPI 最有效地从麝香葡萄渣中捕获总酚类物质（来自 Noble 和 Carlos 的分别为 72.32 和 77.32mg/g），而三种基质均从 Noble 麝香葡萄汁中吸收了最高水平的鞣花酸、没食子酸和 PAC B1。富化基质在体外对酪氨酸酶的抑制作用有效（黑加仑汁-HPI 基质的抑制率高达 57.29%），一般来说，与渣源相比，果汁源对 L-多巴胺的氧化具有更大的抑制作用由酪氨酸酶。多酚富化基质在对抗金黄色葡萄球菌细菌的筛选试验中有效抑制了微生物的增殖，而未经处理的 HF、HPI 或 SPI 则不能抑制细菌的生长。
将植物活性多酚与蛋白质结合并稳定浓缩的技术在化妆品局部应用中具有潜在的用途。
