Yingngam B, Brantner A H
Department of Pharmacognosy, Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Graz, Universitaetsplatz 4/1, A-8010, Graz, Austria; Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Ubon Ratchathani University, Ubon Ratchathani, 34190, Thailand.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jun;37(3):272-81. doi: 10.1111/ics.12192. Epub 2015 Jan 28.
To optimize the extraction yields of essential oil from Fagraea fragrans Roxb. flowers in hydro-distillation using a central composite design (CCD) and to evaluate its biological activities for perfumery and cosmetic applications.
Central composite design was applied to study the influences of operational parameters [water to flower weight (X(1)) and distillation time (X(2))] on the yields of essential oil (Y). Chemical compositions of the essential oil extracted from the optimized condition were identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Antioxidant activities of the essential oil were determined against ABTS(•+) and DPPH(•) radicals, and the cytotoxic effects were assessed on human embryonic kidney (HEK293) cells by the use of the MTT assay. Also, the aromatic properties of the essential oil were evaluated by five healthy trained volunteers.
The best conditions to obtain the maximum essential oil yield were 7.5 mL g(-1) (X(1)) and 215 min (X(2)). The experimental yield of the essential oil (0.35 ± 0.02% v/w) was close to the value predicted by a mathematical model (0.35 ± 0.01% v/w). 3-Octadecyne, Z,Z,Z-7,10,13-hexadecatrienal, E-nerolidol, pentadecanal and linalool were the major constituents of the essential oil. The essential oil showed moderate antioxidant capacities with no toxic effects on HEK293 cells at 1-250 μg mL(-1). Also, the essential oil exhibited a very strong aroma and was classified to be top- to middle-notes.
The results offer the effectively operational conditions in the extraction of essential oil from F. fragrans using hydro-distillation. The essential oil could be used as a natural fragrance, having antioxidant activity with slight cytotoxicity, for perfumery and cosmetic applications.
采用中心复合设计（CCD）优化水蒸馏法提取香花崖豆藤花中精油的得率，并评估其在香料和化妆品应用中的生物活性。
应用中心复合设计研究操作参数[水与花的重量比（X(1)）和蒸馏时间（X(2)）]对精油得率（Y）的影响。通过气相色谱-质谱联用仪鉴定从优化条件下提取的精油的化学成分。测定精油对ABTS(•+)和DPPH(•)自由基的抗氧化活性，并通过MTT法评估其对人胚肾（HEK293）细胞的细胞毒性作用。此外，由五名经过训练的健康志愿者评估精油的香气特性。
获得最大精油得率的最佳条件为7.5 mL g(-1)（X(1)）和215分钟（X(2)）。精油的实验得率（0.35±0.02% v/w）接近数学模型预测值（0.35±0.01% v/w）。3-十八炔、Z,Z,Z-7,10,13-十六碳三烯醛、E-橙花叔醇、十五醛和芳樟醇是精油的主要成分。该精油表现出中等抗氧化能力，在1-250μg mL(-1)浓度下对HEK293细胞无毒性作用。此外，该精油具有非常浓郁的香气，被归类为头香至中香。
该结果提供了水蒸馏法从香花崖豆藤中提取精油的有效操作条件。该精油可作为天然香料，具有抗氧化活性且细胞毒性轻微，可用于香料和化妆品应用。
