Choi H-R, Kang Y-A, Lee H-S, Park K-C
Department of Dermatology, Seoul National University Bundang Hospital, 82 Gumi-ro 173 Beon-gil, Bundang-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do, 463-707, Korea.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 Jun;38(3):279-85. doi: 10.1111/ics.12291. Epub 2016 Jan 27.
Bioactive peptides are commonly used in cosmeceutical purpose. This study was performed to search for an effective and short hypopigmenting peptide using normal human melanocytes as a screening model. A peptide that exhibits multitarget activities will be a promising peptide.
Depigmenting effects were tested in normal human melanocytes. One peptide was selected, and signalling mechanism was investigated by Western blotting and immunofluorescent microscopic examination.
A novel hypopigmenting peptide (dSHP) has been found to inhibit the production of melanin. This peptide significantly decreases tyrosinase activity but was not effective in a direct in vitro assay. It also induces the prolonged activation of ERK, and subsequently downregulates the levels of MITF. PD98059 abolished the dSHP-induced downregulation of MITF. These findings indicate that the dSHP-induced activation of ERK contributes to a reduced melanin synthesis via the downregulation of MITF. Fluorescent microscopic studies were consistent with such findings. Pertussis toxin reverses the downregulation of MITF, which means that the receptor-mediated ERK activation is involved. Moreover, it was also found that downregulation of MITF was clearly inhibited by lysosomal inhibitor (chloroquine).
Novel tetrapeptide dSHP reduces the melanin synthesis by a receptor-mediated pathway. Furthermore, dSHP works by ERK activation and key transcription factor MITF degradation. Thus, it may be a good candidate as an effective hypopigmenting cosmetic agent.