Tamura E, Ishikawa J, Naoe A, Yamamoto T
Make-up Product Research Laboratory, Kao Corporation, Tokyo, Japan.
Biological Science Laboratory, Kao Corporation, Tokyo, Japan.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 Dec;38(6):615-621. doi: 10.1111/ics.12335. Epub 2016 May 26.
The structure of skin on the lips is different from skin at other areas of the body; the water content of the stratum corneum (SC) and the barrier function there is low. Therefore, the lips can easily become dry and rough. The SC plays an important role in the barrier and water-holding functions of the skin. Above all, ceramides (CERs) are important SC lipids which maintain SC functions. The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the degree of lip roughness and the CER profile.
Forty-one Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 22-52 years; mean 34.1) were enrolled in this study. The degree of lip roughness was scored, the values of capacitance and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured and CER profiles of the SC were analysed using tape-stripping.
The degree of lip roughness was related to the capacitance values but not the TEWL values. The roughness level correlated with the levels of CER[NH], CER[NP], CER[AH], CER[EOS] and CER[EOH] and the average carbon numbers of CER[NDS], CER[NH] and CER[NP] but not with the level of total CERs. The capacitance values of the lips were related not only with the levels of total CERs but also with the levels of CER[NH], CER[NP], CER[AH], CER[AP], CER[EOS], CER[EOH] and CER[EOP] and with the average carbon numbers of CER[NDS], CER[NS], CER[NH] and CER[NP]. The TEWL values of the lips were related not only with the levels of total CERs but also with the levels of CER[NH], CER[AH], CER[AP], CER[EOS] and CER[EOH].
The relationship between lip roughness and the CER profile was clarified for the first time. The results suggest that not only the level of total CERs but also the specific CER species and their carbon numbers affect the maintenance of SC function.
唇部皮肤结构与身体其他部位的皮肤不同;角质层(SC)的含水量及其屏障功能较低。因此,唇部容易变得干燥粗糙。SC在皮肤的屏障和保湿功能中起重要作用。最重要的是,神经酰胺(CERs)是维持SC功能的重要SC脂质。本研究的目的是阐明唇部粗糙度与CER谱之间的关系。
41名皮肤正常的日本女性受试者(年龄范围22 - 52岁;平均34.1岁)参与本研究。对唇部粗糙度进行评分,测量电容值和经表皮水分流失(TEWL)值,并使用胶带剥离法分析SC的CER谱。
唇部粗糙度程度与电容值相关,但与TEWL值无关。粗糙度水平与CER[NH]、CER[NP]、CER[AH]、CER[EOS]和CER[EOH]的水平以及CER[NDS]、CER[NH]和CER[NP]的平均碳原子数相关,但与总CERs水平无关。唇部的电容值不仅与总CERs水平有关,还与CER[NH]、CER[NP]、CER[AH]、CER[AP]、CER[EOS]、CER[EOH]和CER[EOP]的水平以及CER[NDS]、CER[NS]、CER[NH]和CER[NP]的平均碳原子数有关。唇部的TEWL值不仅与总CERs水平有关,还与CER[NH]、CER[AH]、CER[AP]、CER[EOS]和CER[EOH]的水平有关。
首次阐明了唇部粗糙度与CER谱之间的关系。结果表明,不仅总CERs水平,而且特定的CER种类及其碳原子数都会影响SC功能的维持。