Kao Corporation, Biological Science Laboratory, Haga-gun, Tochigi, Japan.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013 Mar;12(1):3-11. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12019.
Dry skin in the winter has been reported to involve scaling, defects in water holding and barrier functions, and decreased ceramide (CER) levels in the stratum corneum (SC). We previously reported that a Eucalyptus extract promotes CER synthesis in cultured keratinocytes and accelerates the recovery of hydration in a barrier-disrupted model of human skin.
One of the objectives was to examine the CER profile and its contribution to the relief of dry skin. The other objective was to assess the efficacy of a Eucalyptus extract to treat dry skin.
PATIENTS/METHODS: Twenty subjects with dry skin on their legs were assessed and their CER profiles were analyzed using tape-stripping. A moisturizer with a Eucalyptus extract was assessed for its effects on dry skin using a leg regression methodology comprising 28 days of treatment and 14 days of regression.
Indicators of dry skin conditions (conductance, dryness, roughness, and scaliness) strongly correlated with the level of CER, CER [NP], and CER[NH]. Treatment with the Eucalyptus extract significantly improved conductance (3 days after regression) and transepidermal water loss (14 days after regression) compared with the placebo. After 28 days of treatment with the Eucalyptus extract, the level of CER in the SC did not increase, but CER [NP] did increase.
These results suggest that not only the level of CER, but also specific CER species strongly contribute to dry skin relief and products that increase those are useful to improve dry skin conditions.
冬季皮肤干燥据报道涉及鳞屑形成、水保持和屏障功能缺陷以及角质层（SC）中神经酰胺（CER）水平降低。我们之前报道过桉树提取物可促进培养角质细胞中的 CER 合成，并加速破坏人皮肤屏障模型中皮肤的水合作用恢复。
目的之一是检查 CER 谱及其对缓解皮肤干燥的贡献。另一个目的是评估桉树提取物治疗皮肤干燥的功效。
患者/方法：评估了 20 名腿部皮肤干燥的受试者，并使用胶带剥离法分析了他们的 CER 谱。使用腿部回归方法评估了含有桉树提取物的保湿剂对皮肤干燥的疗效，该方法包括 28 天的治疗和 14 天的回归期。
皮肤干燥状况的指标（电导率、干燥度、粗糙度和鳞屑）与 CER、CER[NP]和 CER[NH]水平强烈相关。与安慰剂相比，桉树提取物治疗可显著改善电导率（回归后 3 天）和经皮水分流失（回归后 14 天）。经过 28 天的桉树提取物治疗，SC 中的 CER 水平没有增加，但 CER[NP]增加了。
这些结果表明，不仅 CER 水平，而且特定的 CER 种类也强烈有助于缓解皮肤干燥，增加这些物质的产品有助于改善皮肤干燥状况。
