Uchida Takashi, Nishioka Keisuke, Motoki Anzu, Yakumaru Masafumi, Sano Tomohiko, Todo Hiroaki, Sugibayashi Kenji
Skin Care Products Research, Kao Corporation.
Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo). 2016;64(11):1597-1606. doi: 10.1248/cpb.c16-00480.
This study investigated the effects of 25 kinds of esters that are used in cosmetics on the permeation of four model compounds with different polarities (caffeine [CF], aminopyrine [AMP], benzoic acid [BA], and flurbiprofen [FP]). The amount of each model compound that permeated through two types of artificial membrane (silicone and Strat-M) was measured and correlated with the physicochemical properties of the esters, including their solubility, viscosity, wettability, surface tension, and uptake. The amount of each model compound that permeated through the silicone membrane was not significantly correlated with the solubility of the esters but was significantly correlated with all other measured physical properties of the esters. Similar correlations were observed for the amounts of AMP, BA, and FP that passed through the Strat-M membrane. However, the amount of CF that permeated through the Strat-M membrane also correlated with the solubility of the esters. There was a highly significant correlation between the amount permeating through the silicone and Strat-M membranes because the model compounds had high lipophilicity. These findings demonstrated that to control the permeation of various chemicals through artificial membranes, it is important to consider the uptake of the esters and that the solubility of the esters is also an important consideration when using a more complex membrane.
本研究调查了化妆品中使用的25种酯类对四种不同极性模型化合物（咖啡因[CF]、氨基比林[AMP]、苯甲酸[BA]和氟比洛芬[FP]）渗透的影响。测量了每种模型化合物透过两种人工膜（硅酮膜和Strat-M膜）的量，并将其与酯类的物理化学性质相关联，包括它们的溶解度、粘度、润湿性、表面张力和摄取量。每种模型化合物透过硅酮膜的量与酯类的溶解度无显著相关性，但与酯类的所有其他测量物理性质显著相关。对于透过Strat-M膜的AMP、BA和FP的量，也观察到了类似的相关性。然而，透过Strat-M膜的CF的量也与酯类的溶解度相关。由于模型化合物具有高亲脂性，透过硅酮膜和Strat-M膜的量之间存在高度显著的相关性。这些发现表明，为了控制各种化学物质透过人工膜的渗透，考虑酯类的摄取很重要，并且在使用更复杂的膜时，酯类的溶解度也是一个重要的考虑因素。
