Betsuno Risako, Yamane Takuya, Tsuji Hiroko, Nakajima Yu, Imai Momoko, Bamba Takeshi, Uchiyama Susumu
Department of Biotechnology, Graduate School of Engineering, Osaka University, Osaka, Japan.
BYU-Analytica Inc., Osaka, Japan.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 May;24(5):e70222. doi: 10.1111/jocd.70222.
Skin aging progresses owing to intrinsic factors, including chronological alterations, and extrinsic factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UV), smoking, and air pollution. One of the mechanisms of aging is a decrease in NAD levels in the body, as an increase in NAD levels prevents skin aging phenotypes. Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) is a precursor of NAD in the salvage pathway and the primary source of NAD in mammals.
This Study Aimed to Evaluate the Permeability, Functionality, and Stability of NMN in Cosmetics.
The permeation of NMN contained in a yeast-fermented filtrate (YFF) was evaluated in vitro using artificial skin membranes (Strat-M). Localization of NMN in the membrane was detected by MALDI-imaging mass spectrometry (MALDI-IMS) analysis. Collagen production in dermal fibroblasts was determined using Collagen Type I pro (ELISA). The analysis of the NMN degradation reaction and the determination of the half-life of NMN in the YFF were performed using high-performance liquid chromatography.
NMN Permeated and Was Detected Only in the Papillary Dermis Region of the Membrane by MALDI-IMS. Furthermore, Collagen Type 1 Production Was Increased in Human Fibroblasts When Treated With NMN. On the Other Hand, the NMN Degradation Reaction Was a First-Order Reaction, and the Half-Life of NMN in the YFF Was Approximately 7 months at 20°C. These Results Suggest That NMN Was Relatively Stable in the YFF and Did Not Reach the Subcutaneous Tissue, and That NMN Increased Collagen Production by Fibroblasts in the Papillary Dermis.
NMN in the YFF permeated artificial skin membranes, and NMN contained in YFF enhanced collagen Type 1 production in fibroblasts. Therefore, the YFF, containing NMN, may be a potential cosmetic ingredient.
皮肤老化是由内在因素（包括自然衰老）和外在因素（包括紫外线辐射、吸烟和空气污染）共同作用导致的。衰老的机制之一是体内烟酰胺腺嘌呤二核苷酸（NAD）水平降低，因为NAD水平升高可预防皮肤衰老表型。烟酰胺单核苷酸（NMN）是补救途径中NAD的前体，也是哺乳动物中NAD的主要来源。
本研究旨在评估NMN在化妆品中的渗透性、功能性和稳定性。
使用人工皮肤膜（Strat-M）在体外评估酵母发酵滤液（YFF）中所含NMN的渗透性。通过基质辅助激光解吸电离成像质谱（MALDI-IMS）分析检测NMN在膜中的定位。使用I型胶原蛋白原酶联免疫吸附测定（ELISA）法测定真皮成纤维细胞中胶原蛋白的产生。使用高效液相色谱法进行NMN降解反应分析和YFF中NMN半衰期的测定。
通过MALDI-IMS检测到NMN仅渗透并存在于膜的乳头真皮区域。此外，用NMN处理人成纤维细胞时，I型胶原蛋白的产生增加。另一方面，NMN降解反应为一级反应，在20°C下YFF中NMN的半衰期约为7个月。这些结果表明，NMN在YFF中相对稳定，未到达皮下组织，并且NMN增加了乳头真皮中成纤维细胞的胶原蛋白产生。
YFF中的NMN可渗透人工皮肤膜，且YFF中所含NMN可增强成纤维细胞中I型胶原蛋白的产生。因此，含有NMN的YFF可能是一种潜在的化妆品成分。
