Blanc D, Saint-Leger D, Brandt J, Constans S, Agache P
Department of Dermatology I, Hôpital Saint-Jacques, Besançon, France.
Arch Dermatol Res. 1989;281(5):346-50. doi: 10.1007/BF00412980.
This paper describes an original in vivo device to investigate and quantify cutaneous resorption of sebum. Such a phenomenon was explored using a photometric determination of residual skin surface lipids at different times following initial deposits of known amounts of artificial sebum on demarcated areas. The technique was carried out on seven healthy subjects. The chosen area was the anterior aspect of the forearm, owing to the very low sebum production of this site, less than the sensitivity of the measuring instrument. The kinetics of absorption of applied sebum turned out to be hyperbolic-like and well correlated with experimental results (r = 0.992), allowing a mathematical determination of the initial velocity of penetration of sebum into the skin, reaching 20 micrograms/cm2.min for a standard program including a mean initial deposit of 116 micrograms/cm2. This kinetics actually does not fit with a true percutaneous absorption of lipids but is compatible with that of absorption into the stratum corneum. It conveys the faster absorption of the latter for sebum, a well-known but not so far quantified property of stratum corneum. The model here described is not at once transposable to skin areas with high sebum production since, quite obviously in such zones, the stratum corneum is permanently saturated with skin surface lipids. Therefore, the conclusions of this work cannot be correlated with the regreasing parameters studied so far on the forehead, but they provide interesting data about the evolution of sebum following its output onto the skin surface and therefore a better understanding of sebaceous physiology.
本文描述了一种用于研究和量化皮脂经皮吸收的原创性体内装置。利用光度法测定在划定区域初始沉积已知量的人工皮脂后不同时间的皮肤表面残留脂质,对这种现象进行了探索。该技术在7名健康受试者身上进行。选择的区域是前臂前侧,因为该部位皮脂分泌量极低,低于测量仪器的灵敏度。结果表明,涂抹皮脂的吸收动力学呈双曲线状,与实验结果相关性良好(r = 0.992),从而能够通过数学方法确定皮脂渗透到皮肤中的初始速度,对于包括平均初始沉积量为116微克/平方厘米的标准程序,该速度达到20微克/平方厘米·分钟。这种动力学实际上并不符合脂质真正的经皮吸收情况,但与角质层的吸收情况相符。它表明角质层对皮脂的吸收更快,这是角质层一个众所周知但迄今未量化的特性。这里描述的模型不能立即应用于皮脂分泌量高的皮肤区域,因为在这些区域,角质层显然会被皮肤表面脂质永久饱和。因此,这项工作的结论不能与迄今为止在前额研究的再润滑参数相关联,但它们提供了关于皮脂分泌到皮肤表面后其变化的有趣数据,从而有助于更好地理解皮脂腺生理学。