Clinique Dermatologique, Centre Hospitalier et Universitaire, F 25030 Besançon, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 1980 Oct;2(5):243-50. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00250.x.
Summary Sebum excretion is the entire feature which governs sebum outflow to the skin surface through follicular pore. It can be measured by numerous methods, the first of which, devised by Emanuel in 1936, was a solvent extraction followed by desiccation and weighing. At present, virtually the only methods used are the gravimetric and photometric ones. The first one, using absorbent paper to collect the sebum, was introduced by Strauss and Pochi, and improved by Cunliffe and Shuster. Schaefer and Kuhn-Bussius' photometric method is about as accurate as the previous one, but more simple and more rapid to use. Two parameters can be used to quantify sebum excretion: one static, the casual level (CL), i.e. the skin surface lipid amount of a non protected area neither wiped nor washed; the other is dynamic, the sebum excretion rate (SER), i.e. the skin surface lipid flow of a previously cleaned area. The significant differences of these values between different sex and/or age matched groups, give an account of the various stimulation levels of the sebaceous glands according to the underlying endocrine state. Several attempts have been made to show a sebum excretion regulation. Unfortunately, because of the divergences of their results, there is still no definite evidence of such an event occuring. Numerous experiments have also been carried out on the effects of skin temperature and sweat on sebum excretion. The first of these two parameters can act upon sebum skin surface spreading by changing sebum viscosity. The second one can modify local surface tension. Finally, the existence of a circadian rhythm constitutes a further parameter which must not be neglected when interpreting investigations of sebum excretion.
皮脂分泌是整个特征，通过毛囊孔将皮脂排出到皮肤表面。它可以通过多种方法来测量，其中第一种方法是 Emanuel 在 1936 年设计的溶剂萃取法，随后是干燥和称重。目前，几乎唯一使用的方法是重量法和光度法。第一种方法是使用吸油纸收集皮脂，由 Strauss 和 Pochi 引入，并由 Cunliffe 和 Shuster 改进。Schaefer 和 Kuhn-Bussius 的光度法与之前的方法一样准确，但使用起来更简单、更快。有两个参数可用于量化皮脂分泌：一个是静态的，即偶然水平（CL），即未擦拭或未清洗的非保护区域的皮肤表面脂质量；另一个是动态的，即皮脂分泌率（SER），即先前清洁区域的皮肤表面脂质流量。这些值在不同性别和/或年龄匹配组之间的显著差异，说明了根据潜在的内分泌状态，皮脂腺的各种刺激水平。已经有一些尝试来显示皮脂分泌的调节。不幸的是，由于它们的结果存在差异，仍然没有明确的证据表明这种情况发生。还进行了许多关于皮肤温度和汗水对皮脂分泌的影响的实验。这两个参数中的第一个可以通过改变皮脂粘度来影响皮脂在皮肤表面的扩散。第二个可以改变局部表面张力。最后，昼夜节律的存在是另一个不容忽视的参数，在解释皮脂分泌的研究时必须考虑到这一点。
