The Use of Directional Reflectance Measurement for in vivo Assessment of Protective Properties of Cosmetics in the Infrared Radiation Range.

Photoprotection of skin is now focused on UV radiation. The aim of this study was to evaluate in vivo cosmetic products in terms of protection against infrared radiation (IR) and propose a methodology for conducting such measurements. The directional reflectance (DR) of 12 UV filters, six care creams and two preparations containing fumed silica applied on the forearm of 36 volunteers was examined in six spectral bands for two angles of incidence. SOC-410 Directional Hemispherical Reflectometer was used to measure DR. There is very little change in DR for all spectral bands for both incident angles for both UV filters, care creams and preparations containing fumed silica. For example, for 15% of fumed silica in glycerin for the spectral band of 0.9-1.1 μm and the incident angle of 20°, skin DR prior to application was 0.543; 5 min after application was 0.533 and 30 min after application was 0.559. Both UV filters, care creams and fumed silica do not protect skin against IR. The proposed method of in vivo measurements is superior to in vitro studies which have been conducted so far because it takes into account both the refractive index at the tissue/air interface and the absorption of IR by adipose tissue.