Saewan Nisakorn, Jimtaisong Ampa
School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Muang, Chiangrai, Thailand.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2015 Mar;14(1):47-63. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12123. Epub 2015 Jan 12.
The rise in solar ultraviolet radiation on the earth's surface has led to a depletion of stratospheric ozone over recent decades, thus accelerating the need to protect human skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation such as erythema, edema, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and skin cancer. There are many different ways to protect skin against UV radiation's harmful effects. The most popular way to reduce the amount of UV radiation penetrating the skin is topical application of sunscreen products that contain UV absorbing or reflecting active molecules. Based on their protection mechanism, the active molecules in sunscreens are broadly divided into inorganic and organic agents. Inorganic sunscreens reflect and scatter UV and visible radiation, while organic sunscreens absorb UV radiation and then re-emit energy as heat or light. These synthetic molecules have limited concentration according to regulation concern. Several natural compounds with UV absorption property have been used to substitute for or to reduce the quantity of synthetic sunscreen agents. In addition to UV absorption property, most natural compounds were found to act as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory agents, which provide further protection against the damaging effects of UV radiation exposure. Compounds derived from natural sources have gained considerable attention for use in sunscreen products and have bolstered the market trend toward natural cosmetics. This adds to the importance of there being a wide selection of active molecules in sunscreen formulations. This paper summarizes a number of natural products derived from propolis, plants, algae, and lichens that have shown potential photoprotection properties against UV radiation exposure-induced skin damage.
近几十年来,地球表面太阳紫外线辐射的增加导致平流层臭氧消耗,从而加速了保护人类皮肤免受紫外线辐射有害影响的需求,如红斑、水肿、色素沉着、光老化和皮肤癌。有许多不同的方法来保护皮肤免受紫外线辐射的有害影响。减少紫外线穿透皮肤量的最常用方法是局部涂抹含有紫外线吸收或反射活性分子的防晒产品。根据其保护机制,防晒产品中的活性分子大致分为无机和有机两类。无机防晒剂反射和散射紫外线及可见光辐射,而有机防晒剂吸收紫外线辐射,然后以热或光的形式重新释放能量。根据相关规定,这些合成分子的浓度有限。几种具有紫外线吸收特性的天然化合物已被用于替代或减少合成防晒剂的用量。除了紫外线吸收特性外,大多数天然化合物还被发现具有抗氧化、抗炎和免疫调节作用,可进一步保护皮肤免受紫外线辐射暴露的有害影响。天然来源的化合物在防晒产品中的应用受到了广泛关注,并推动了天然化妆品的市场趋势。这增加了防晒配方中存在多种活性分子的重要性。本文总结了一些来自蜂胶、植物、藻类和地衣的天然产物,它们对紫外线辐射暴露引起的皮肤损伤具有潜在的光保护特性。