Ferreira A, Vecino X, Ferreira D, Cruz J M, Moldes A B, Rodrigues L R
Faculty of Science and Technology, University of La Rochelle, 17042 La Rochelle, France; CEB-Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal.
CEB-Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal; Chemical Engineering Department, School of Industrial Engineering (EEI), University of Vigo, Campus As Lagoas-Marcosende, 36310 Vigo-Pontevedra, Spain.
Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces. 2017 Jul 1;155:522-529. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2017.04.026. Epub 2017 Apr 20.
Cosmetic and personal care products including toothpaste, shampoo, creams, makeup, among others, are usually formulated with petroleum-based surfactants, although in the last years the consume trend for "green" products is inducing the replacement of surface-active agents in these formulations by natural surfactants, so-called biosurfactants. In addition to their surfactant capacity, many biosurfactants can act as good emulsifiers, which is an extra advantage in the preparation of green cosmetic products. In this work, a biosurfactant obtained from Lactobacillus paracasei was used as a stabilizing agent in oil-in-water emulsions containing essential oils and natural antioxidant extract. In the presence of biosurfactant, maximum percentages of emulsion volumes (EV=100%) were observed, with droplets sizes about 199nm. These results were comparable with the ones obtained using sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), a synthetic well known surfactant with high emulsify capacity. Moreover, the biosurfactant and emulsions cytotoxicity was evaluated using a mouse fibroblast cell line. Solutions containing 5g/L of biosurfactant presented cell proliferation values of 97%, whereas 0.5g/L of SDS showed a strong inhibitory effect. Overall, the results herein gathered are very promising towards the development of new green cosmetic formulations.
化妆品和个人护理产品，包括牙膏、洗发水、面霜、化妆品等，通常是用石油基表面活性剂配制而成，不过在过去几年里，“绿色”产品的消费趋势促使这些配方中的表面活性剂被天然表面活性剂（即所谓的生物表面活性剂）所取代。除了具有表面活性剂能力外，许多生物表面活性剂还可以作为良好的乳化剂，这在制备绿色化妆品时是一个额外的优势。在这项工作中，一种从副干酪乳杆菌获得的生物表面活性剂被用作含精油和天然抗氧化剂提取物的水包油乳液的稳定剂。在存在生物表面活性剂的情况下，观察到乳液体积的最大百分比（EV = 100%），液滴尺寸约为199nm。这些结果与使用十二烷基硫酸钠（SDS）获得的结果相当，SDS是一种具有高乳化能力的知名合成表面活性剂。此外，使用小鼠成纤维细胞系评估了生物表面活性剂和乳液的细胞毒性。含有5g/L生物表面活性剂的溶液的细胞增殖值为97%，而0.5g/L的SDS则显示出强烈的抑制作用。总体而言，本文收集的结果对于开发新的绿色化妆品配方非常有前景。
