Fagot D, Pham D M, Laboureau J, Planel E, Guerin L, Nègre C, Donovan M, Bernard B A
L'Oréal R & I, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France.
L'Oréal R & I, Campus Chevilly, 188-200, rue Paul Hochart, 94550, Chevilly-Larue, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Aug;40(4):388-400. doi: 10.1111/ics.12472. Epub 2018 Aug 9.
Oxidative stress and low-grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated.
The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of crocin were evaluated by in vitro assays of antioxidation activities, ELISA and microarray analysis. The effect of crocin on keratinocyte glycobiology was evaluated by proprietary GLYcoDiag lectin technologies and microarray analysis.
Crocin is endowed with antioxidant potential against reactive oxygen species, protects squalene against UVA-induced peroxidation and prevents the release of inflammatory mediators. The expression of NF-kB-related genes and glycosylation-related genes is modulated in the presence of crocin.
Results could designate this molecule as a promising skin ageing prevention cosmetic agent. Of note, some of these effects could be mediated by protein O-glycosylation and interaction of crocin with osidic receptors of keratinocytes.
氧化应激和低度慢性炎症是生理性皮肤老化的关键特征。本研究旨在检测体外培养的正常人表皮角质形成细胞（NHEK）和人真皮成纤维细胞（HDF）中，藏红花素（一种赋予藏红花颜色的类胡萝卜素糖苷）的抗氧化和抗炎特性。此外，鉴于皮肤糖生物学这一新兴领域以及藏红花素中两个龙胆二糖部分的存在，首次研究了藏红花素对NHEK糖基化途径的影响。
通过抗氧化活性体外测定、酶联免疫吸附测定（ELISA）和微阵列分析评估藏红花素的抗炎和抗氧化活性。通过专有的GLYcoDiag凝集素技术和微阵列分析评估藏红花素对角质形成细胞糖生物学的影响。
藏红花素具有对抗活性氧的抗氧化潜力，保护角鲨烯免受紫外线A诱导的过氧化作用，并防止炎症介质的释放。在存在藏红花素的情况下，NF-κB相关基因和糖基化相关基因的表达受到调节。
结果表明该分子有望成为预防皮肤老化的化妆品原料。值得注意的是，其中一些作用可能由蛋白质O-糖基化以及藏红花素与角质形成细胞糖苷受体的相互作用介导。
