SILAB R&D Department, Brive, France.
Université Paris-Sud, Paris, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Dec;40(6):549-554. doi: 10.1111/ics.12496. Epub 2018 Nov 13.
Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non-invasive approaches.
For this purpose, 15 healthy volunteers with normal skin and 19 healthy volunteers with xerotic skin were selected by a dermatologist, thanks to a visual scorage. Firstly, the skin surface was characterized with biometric measurements. Then, the state of skin dryness was assessed by in vivo confocal microscopy. The molecular signature of xerotic skin was then determined by in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Finally, an identification of stratum corneum (SC) lipids was performed using Normal phase liquid chromatography (NP-LC) coupled to two detectors: Corona and High Resolution/Mass Spectroscopy (HR/MS).
Results obtained at the skin surface displayed an increase in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a decrease in the hydration rate in xerotic skin. Confocal microscopy revealed an alteration of the cell shape in xerotic skin. Moreover, confocal Raman microspectroscopy demonstrated directly in vivo and non-invasively the lack of organization and conformation of lipids in this skin. Finally, HPLC analyses revealed that the three ceramide sub-classes (NdS, NS and EOP) significantly decrease in xerosis. Altogether, these results identify parameters for the characterization of xerotic skin compared to normal.
This study highlighted discriminative parameters from the surface to the molecular level in vivo and non-invasively between xerotic and normal skins. These results will be useful for the development of new cosmetic active ingredients dedicated to xerotic skin.
尽管干燥症是人群中常见的皮肤疾病，但目前还没有针对干燥皮肤的全身性的体内研究。因此，本研究的目的是采用体内和非侵入性方法从表面到分子水平来描绘干燥皮肤。
为此，皮肤科医生通过目视评分选择了 15 名具有正常皮肤的健康志愿者和 19 名具有干燥皮肤的健康志愿者。首先，通过生物计量学测量来描述皮肤表面。然后，通过体内共聚焦显微镜评估皮肤干燥状态。然后，通过体内共聚焦拉曼显微镜光谱术确定干燥皮肤的分子特征。最后，使用正相液相色谱（NP-LC）结合两种检测器： Corona 和高分辨率/质谱（HR/MS）来鉴定角质层（SC）脂质。
在皮肤表面获得的结果显示，干燥皮肤的经表皮水分流失（TEWL）增加，皮肤水合作用速率降低。共聚焦显微镜显示干燥皮肤的细胞形状发生了变化。此外，共聚焦拉曼显微镜光谱术直接在体内和非侵入性地证明了这种皮肤中脂质的缺乏组织和构象。最后，HPLC 分析表明，三种神经酰胺亚类（NdS、NS 和 EOP）在干燥症中显著减少。总而言之，这些结果确定了与正常皮肤相比干燥皮肤的特征参数。
本研究强调了在体内和非侵入性条件下从表面到分子水平区分干燥皮肤和正常皮肤的鉴别参数。这些结果将有助于开发针对干燥皮肤的新型化妆品活性成分。
