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[防晒剂的评估]

[Evaluation of sunscreening agents].

作者信息

Schauder S

机构信息

Universitäts-Hautklinik Göttingen.

出版信息

Z Hautkr. 1988;63 Suppl 1:44-8.

PMID:3067467
Abstract

Sunscreen preparations are evaluated according to their protection power against biological effects of ultraviolet radiation. UV-induced phenomena found on protected skin are compared with those on unprotected skin; thus the sunprotection factor is estimated. In order to assess the photoprotective power of sunscreens, only early UV-induced effects are decisive--such as erythema. PUVA erythema, pigmentation, activation of the ornithine decarboxylase, the influence on Langerhans cells, appearance of 'sunburn' cells, and changes of the DNA metabolism. We report on the various methods to obtain the specific sunprotection factors against UVB and UVA. Water-resistance, photostability, and pharmacokinetics depending on the vehicle are further criteria with regard to the evaluation of sunscreens. We rely on consumers information regarding the following properties of sunscreens: stickiness, oily shine, greasiness, discoloration, odor, and tolerance.

摘要

防晒制剂根据其对紫外线辐射生物效应的防护能力进行评估。将受保护皮肤出现的紫外线诱导现象与未受保护皮肤的现象进行比较,从而估算出防晒系数。为了评估防晒剂的光防护能力,只有早期的紫外线诱导效应才是决定性的,如红斑、PUVA红斑、色素沉着、鸟氨酸脱羧酶的激活、对朗格汉斯细胞的影响、“晒伤”细胞的出现以及DNA代谢的变化。我们报告了获得针对UVB和UVA的特定防晒系数的各种方法。取决于载体的耐水性、光稳定性和药代动力学是评估防晒剂的进一步标准。我们依赖于消费者提供的有关防晒剂以下特性的信息:粘性、油光、油腻感、变色、气味和耐受性。

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