L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, P.R. China.
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, 93601, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Apr;41(2):147-155. doi: 10.1111/ics.12518. Epub 2019 Apr 1.
This study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full-thickness skin model.
A full-thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation (DUVR). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose-dependent manner. We then validated the methodology for efficacy evaluation of different sunscreens formulas.
The reconstructed skin model was histologically consistent with human skin, and upon DUVR exposure, the constituent fibroblasts and keratinocytes exhibited transcriptomic alterations in pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation and extracellular matrix remodelling. When used to evaluate sunscreen protection on the model, the observed level of protection from UV-induced gene expression was consistent with the corresponding protection factors determined clinically and allowed for statistical ranking of sunscreen efficacy.
Within this study we show that quantification of gene modulation within the reconstructed skin model is a biologically relevant approach with sensitivity and predictability to evaluate photoprotection products.
本研究旨在建立一种使用重建全层皮肤模型评估防晒霜光保护性能的体外预测方法。
用人纤维母细胞和角质形成细胞从中国人皮肤中分离出来，构建了全层皮肤模型，使其暴露于每日紫外线辐射（DUVR）下。我们检测了转录组反应，确定了 DUVR 以剂量依赖方式调节表达的基因。然后，我们验证了不同防晒霜配方功效评估的方法学。
重建的皮肤模型在组织学上与人皮肤一致，并且在 DUVR 暴露下，组成的成纤维细胞和角质形成细胞表现出与氧化应激、炎症和细胞外基质重塑相关的途径中的转录组改变。当用于评估模型上防晒霜的保护作用时，观察到的对 UV 诱导的基因表达的保护水平与临床测定的相应保护因子一致，并允许对防晒霜功效进行统计学排序。
在本研究中，我们表明，在重建的皮肤模型中定量基因调节是一种具有敏感性和可预测性的生物相关方法，可用于评估光保护产品。
