L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Clichy, France.
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Oct;41(5):450-461. doi: 10.1111/ics.12558.
To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities.
Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20-60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions.
These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment.
The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men.
评估空中慢性城市污染（UP）对生活在两个污染程度不同的中国城市的中国男性面部某些特征严重程度的影响。
对来自两个队列的 201 名中国男性（100 名来自保定/污染严重，101 名来自大连/污染较轻）的标准化数字照片进行拍摄，这些男性年龄不同（20-60 岁），可以关注 17 个不同的面部特征。这 17 个特征由 15 名专家使用临床参考皮肤图谱进行分级。所有受试者都填写了一份问卷，收集他们与日晒和护肤产品使用相关的习惯。一个由 80 名年龄相仿的中国女性组成的天真小组在盲条件下为每个受试者分配了一个感知年龄。
这些结果证实了之前在中国女性中使用类似方案获得的数据，即一些面部特征在污染更严重的城市中表现出更严重的程度。然而，与女性不同，根据性别，面部特征的变化与年龄的关系呈现出不同的模式。在中国男性中，大多数特征的出现较早，年龄相关性变化较低，与女性观察到的情况相反，除了血管紊乱。在两个队列中，日晒习惯和使用护肤品的习惯完全相同，这加强了 UP 在面部特征进行性变化中的特殊作用。与之前在中国女性中获得的结果相似，生活在污染更严重城市的男性比生活在污染较轻的空气环境中的男性被认为更老。
本研究证实，更严重的 UP 会增加中国男性某些面部特征的严重程度。
