L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 9, Rue Pierre Dreyfus, 93400, Clichy, France.
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 3-2-1 Takatsu-ku Sakado, 213 012, Kawasaki-Shi, Kanagawa, Japan.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Oct;41(5):425-436. doi: 10.1111/ics.12555.
To assess the impacts of sun exposures on some skin signs on the faces and hands of differently aged Japanese women, according to their distinct behaviours towards vis à vis sun exposure.
Two comparable cohorts of Japanese women (aged 18-83 years) were created according to their usual behaviour towards sun exposure i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 495) and sun-phobic (N = 516) and through their regular use(s) of a photo-protective product. Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 18 facial signs that were graded by 15 experts, using a referential skin ageing Atlas. From these two cohorts, two sub-cohorts (114 and 122 women) were created with regard to the similar clinical aspects of the dorsal side of their hands (Left vs. Right) that were further graded. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-ranges, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and photo-protection.
Facial signs related to skin wrinkles/texture and pigmentary spots were found significantly more accentuated among non-sun-phobic women and show an early onset (20-30 years). Facial sagging and crow's feet wrinkles appear delayed (30-40 years). The severity of vascular disorders was found to be similar in the two cohorts. The absolute differences in the grading's of almost all signs were unsurprisingly found increased with advancing ages, illustrating the combination of chronological and photo-ageing processes. With regard to hands, differences in skin texture and pigmentary disorders are of a late onset (40-50 years) and were found much increased at older ages. The cutaneous signs of the hands of Japanese women can hardly be taken as reliable markers of their photo-ageing status.
The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impact of sun exposures on the facial skin of Japanese women, pinpointing the fact that some facial signs are of an early onset. Results significantly confirm the importance of both sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures.
根据日本女性对阳光暴露的不同行为,评估阳光暴露对面部和手部皮肤某些迹象的影响。
根据她们对阳光暴露的习惯行为(非恐光者(N=495)和恐光者(N=516))以及她们是否经常使用防晒产品,创建了两组具有可比性的日本女性队列。标准照片(全脸和 45°侧面)聚焦于 18 个面部特征,由 15 名专家使用参考皮肤老化图谱进行评分。从这两组中,根据手部背部(左手与右手)的相似临床特征创建了两个亚组(114 名和 122 名女性),并对其进行进一步评分。通过年龄范围,使用每个特征的评分的绝对值差异(非恐光者减去恐光者),以更好地确定阳光暴露和防晒的影响。
非恐光者女性中发现与皮肤皱纹/纹理和色素斑相关的面部特征明显更加明显,并表现出早期发病(20-30 岁)。面部下垂和鱼尾纹出现延迟(30-40 岁)。两个队列中血管疾病的严重程度相似。几乎所有特征的评分绝对值差异随着年龄的增长而增加,这表明了自然衰老和光老化过程的结合。关于手部,皮肤纹理和色素紊乱的差异发病较晚(40-50 岁),并且在年龄较大时增加得更多。日本女性手部的皮肤迹象几乎不能作为其光老化状况的可靠标志物。
本研究首次说明了阳光暴露对面部皮肤的影响在日本女性中的一些特殊性,指出了一些面部特征发病较早的事实。结果显著证实了避免阳光照射和采取防晒措施的重要性。