Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities (CETAPS EA3832), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, UNIROUEN, Mont-Saint-Aignan, France.
School of Sport, Health and Exercise Science, University of Portsmouth, Portsmouth, United Kingdom.
PLoS One. 2022 Jun 10;17(6):e0269794. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0269794. eCollection 2022.
In climbing, the visual system is confronted with a dual demand: controlling ongoing movement and searching for upcoming movement possibilities. The aims of the present research were: (i) to investigate the effect of different modes of practice on how learners deal with this dual demand; and (ii) to analyze the extent this effect may facilitate transfer of learning to a new climbing route. The effect of a constant practice, an imposed schedule of variations and a self-controlled schedule of variations on the gaze behaviors and the climbing fluency of novices were compared. Results showed that the constant practice group outperformed the imposed variability group on the training route and the three groups climbing fluency on the transfer route did not differ. Analyses of the gaze behaviors showed that the constant practice group used more online gaze control during the last session whereas the imposed variability group relied on a more proactive gaze control. This last gaze pattern was also used on the transfer route by the imposed variability group. Self-controlled variability group displayed more interindividual differences in gaze behaviors. These findings reflect that learning protocols induce different timing for gaze patterns that may differently facilitate adaptation to new climbing routes.
在攀岩中，视觉系统面临着双重需求：控制正在进行的动作和搜索即将到来的动作可能性。本研究的目的是：（i）研究不同的练习模式如何影响学习者应对这种双重需求；（ii）分析这种效果是否可以促进学习向新的攀岩路线转移。比较了恒定练习、强制变化计划和自我控制变化计划对新手的注视行为和攀岩流畅性的影响。结果表明，在训练路线上，恒定练习组优于强制变化组，而在转移路线上，三组的攀岩流畅性没有差异。注视行为的分析表明，恒定练习组在最后一次练习中使用了更多的在线注视控制，而强制变化组则依赖于更积极的注视控制。强制变化组在转移路线上也使用了这种最后一种注视模式。自我控制变化组的注视行为表现出更多的个体间差异。这些发现反映出学习方案会引起注视模式的不同时间安排，这可能会以不同的方式促进对新的攀岩路线的适应。
