Unité de Technologie et Valorisation Alimentaire, Centre d'Analyses et de Recherche, Université Saint-Joseph, Beirut, Lebanon.
Interdisciplinary Unit: Lipids, Analytical and Biological Systems Lip(Sys)2, Faculty of Pharmacy, Univ Paris-sud, Université Paris-Saclay, Châtenay-Malabry, France.
Int J Dermatol. 2020 Feb;59(2):178-183. doi: 10.1111/ijd.14699. Epub 2019 Nov 4.
Skin depigmentation is increasingly oriented toward plant extracts because of harmfulness of depigmenting active ingredients used in cosmetics and dermatology. Reconstructed human pigmented epidermis (RHPE) is the closest in vitro model to human skin and offers the possibility to test the global depigmenting effect of a plant extract. These co-cultures of keratinocytes and melanocytes are the most advanced and newest models for testing depigmentation, and until now very few studies have been done with these cultures. We investigated the cytotoxicity and the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and melanogenesis of four extracts from Combretum micranthum (G. Don) leaves, Anacardium occidentale (L.) fruits, Moringa oleifera (Lam.) seeds, and Adansonia digitata (L.) seeds.
The vegetal extracts were obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction and the vegetal oils by maceration. Anti-tyrosinase properties of two aqueous extracts were evaluated. Then, the cytotoxicity and depigmenting effects of these plant extracts were tested in vitro with RHPE model delivered by SkinEthic .
Antityrosinase activities were found to be 84.58% and 31.02% for C. micranthum and A. occidentale, respectively. All extracts, except A. occidentale, showed to be nontoxic. C. micranthum, M. oleifera, A. digitata, and mixture of M. oleifera and A. digitata extracts have shown, for the first time, an in vitro depigmenting activity equivalent or even more important than kojic acid.
These natural extracts coming from Senegal botanical biodiversity could be used in cosmetic and dermatology as alternative agents to achieve skin depigmentation. Further study should be focused on the mechanism of action of these plant extracts.
由于化妆品和皮肤科中使用的美白活性成分的危害性，皮肤美白越来越倾向于植物提取物。重建的人类色素上皮（RHPE）是最接近人体皮肤的体外模型，可用于测试植物提取物的整体美白效果。这些角质形成细胞和黑素细胞的共培养物是测试美白效果的最先进和最新模型，到目前为止，对这些培养物的研究非常少。我们研究了来自 Combretum micranthum（G. Don）叶、Anacardium occidentale（L.）果实、Moringa oleifera（Lam.）种子和 Adansonia digitata（L.）种子的四种提取物对细胞的细胞毒性以及对酪氨酸酶和黑色素生成的抑制作用。
植物提取物通过超声辅助提取获得，植物油脂通过浸渍提取获得。评估了两种水提物的抗酪氨酸酶特性。然后，通过 SkinEthic 提供的 RHPE 模型，在体外测试了这些植物提取物的细胞毒性和美白效果。
发现 C. micranthum 和 A. occidentale 的抗酪氨酸酶活性分别为 84.58%和 31.02%。除 A. occidentale 外，所有提取物均显示非毒性。C. micranthum、M. oleifera、A. digitata 和 M. oleifera 和 A. digitata 混合物提取物首次显示出与曲酸相当或更重要的体外美白活性。
这些来自塞内加尔植物生物多样性的天然提取物可在化妆品和皮肤病学中用作实现皮肤美白的替代剂。应进一步研究这些植物提取物的作用机制。
