Katekawa Edson, Caverzan Jeanifer, Mussi Lilian, Camargo-Junior Flavio B, Sufi Bianca, Padovani Giovana, Nazato Lucas, Nogueira Cecilia, Magalhães Wagner V, Di Stasi Luiz C
Research and Development Department, Chemyunion Química Ltda, Sorocaba, Brazil.
Department of Pharmacology, Laboratory of Phytomedicines, Pharmacology and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech), Institute of Biosciences, São Paulo State University (Unesp), Botucatu, Brazil.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Jul;19(7):1691-1698. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13217. Epub 2019 Nov 19.
Hydration is an important factor to promote skin barrier function, metabolism, and appearance. In this process, the presence of aquaglyceroporins, envelope and lipid synthesis, and metabolism proteins are essential to provide greater corneocyte cohesion and to form a barrier avoiding transepidermal water loss.
We evaluated the effects of a new topical pigment-free agent containing an Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-rich dermocosmetic preparation (ACP) on the aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (INV), glucocerebrosidase (GBA), and elongation of very-long-chain fatty acid (ELOVL) proteins production in skin human fragments, as well as on the transepidermal water loss in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial.
AQP3, FLG, INV, GBA, and ELOVL3 levels were measured by immunofluorescence analysis in human skin explants. Clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ACP 1% and ACP 3% on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Image and statistical analysis showed that ACP 3% significantly increased at 90% the expression of AQP3. Similarly, ACP 3% was able to promote a significant increase of 68% and 51% in FLG and INV, respectively. ACP 3% produced no effects on the GBA and ELOVL3 proteins. Transepidermal water loss was significantly reduced in human volunteers under treatment with ACP 1% and ACP 3%.
ACP reduced transepidermal water loss in a clinical trial, promoting human skin hydration. These effects were related to modulation of the AQP3, FLG, and INV as evidenced by immunofluorescence assay. This way, A colubrina polysaccharide-rich phytopharmaceutical preparation is an effective additive product to skin hydration.
水合作用是促进皮肤屏障功能、新陈代谢及外观的重要因素。在此过程中，水甘油通道蛋白、包膜和脂质合成以及代谢蛋白的存在对于提供更大的角质形成细胞凝聚力和形成避免经表皮水分流失的屏障至关重要。
我们在一项双盲安慰剂对照临床试验中，评估了一种含有富含南美肉豆蔻多糖的皮肤美容制剂（ACP）的新型无色素外用制剂对人皮肤片段中水通道蛋白3（AQP-3）、丝聚合蛋白（FLG）、兜甲蛋白（INV）、葡萄糖脑苷脂酶（GBA）以及超长链脂肪酸延伸酶（ELOVL）蛋白生成的影响，以及对经表皮水分流失的影响。
通过免疫荧光分析测定人皮肤外植体中AQP3、FLG、INV、GBA和ELOVL3的水平。进行临床试验以评估1%和3%的ACP对经表皮水分流失（TEWL）的影响。
图像和统计分析显示，3%的ACP使AQP3的表达显著增加了90%。同样，3%的ACP能够分别使FLG和INV显著增加68%和51%。3%的ACP对GBA和ELOVL3蛋白没有影响。在接受1%和3%的ACP治疗的人类志愿者中，经表皮水分流失显著减少。
在临床试验中，ACP减少了经表皮水分流失，促进了人体皮肤水合作用。免疫荧光测定证明，这些作用与AQP3、FLG和INV的调节有关。因此，一种富含南美肉豆蔻多糖的植物药物制剂是皮肤水合作用的有效添加剂产品。
