Laboratory of Phytomedicines, Pharmacology, and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech), Department of Biophysics and Pharmacology, Institute of Biosciences, São Paulo State University (UNESP), Botucatu 18618-689, SP, Brazil.
Research and Development Department, Chemyunion Ltd., Sorocaba 18087-101, SP, Brazil.
Molecules. 2022 Nov 3;27(21):7518. doi: 10.3390/molecules27217518.
Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing , , , or are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.
虽然美容效果是治疗皮肤老化的理想效果，但它在控制几种皮肤疾病方面也很重要，主要是在老年人中。由于消费者对具有比现有市场产品更低副作用的非侵入性产品的需求，新型皮肤化妆品的发展迅速增加。由于其具有各种安全的活性产品，植物来源的天然化合物和草药衍生配方已经普及，这些产品通过不同的作用机制对几种皮肤老化信号通路起作用。基于此，本综述的目的是确定草药衍生产品研究的最新进展，包括具有皮肤抗衰老特性的草药配方和分离化合物。研究评估了草药衍生产品在体外、离体和体内研究中的生物学效应，突出了临床试验中报道的具有可用药效学数据支持其保护作用以治疗、预防或控制人类皮肤衰老的效应。因此，可以确定没食子酸和阿魏酸以及含有 、 、 或 的草药配方是开发具有皮肤抗衰老特性的新型皮肤化妆品最有前途的天然产品。
