Romano Mylena, Chandra Mahesh, Harutyunyan Mkrtich, Savian Taciana, Villegas Cristian, Minim Valéria, Malfeito-Ferreira Manuel
Linking Landscape Environment Agriculture and Food (LEAF) Research Center, Instituto Superior de Agronomia, Universidade de Lisboa, Tapada da Ajuda, 1349-017 Lisboa, Portugal.
Department of Exact Sciences, College of Agriculture Luiz de Queiroz, University of São Paulo, 13418-900 São Paulo, Brazil.
Foods. 2020 Jan 19;9(1):105. doi: 10.3390/foods9010105.
The drivers of consumer acceptance concerning organic wines are not well understood. In particular, among wine professionals, there are anecdotal evidences claiming that consumers accept off-flavours that would not be tolerated if the wines were conventionally produced. Therefore, the aim of this study was to shed further light on this issue by tasting blind wines of both types of production using a tasting panel comprised by experienced individuals of several nationalities. The tasted wines were both conventional and organic and were with and without off-flavours. The same wines were evaluated in three tasting sessions where the given information was: (1) all wines were conventional, (2) all wines were organic, and (3) tasters were asked to guess the mode of production. A group of untrained tasters also rated the same organic wines in an informed session. The results showed that wines were significantly better scored and were given a higher willingness to pay value in the "organic" session. In addition, the experienced tasting panel produced a list of the most frequent sensory descriptors. When tasters were asked to guess the mode of production, wines that were supposed to be organic received a higher citation of off-flavours, such as "oxidized", "reductive", and "animal/undergrowth". Moreover, an overall emotional response of unpleasantness was associated with the recognition of organic wines in the "guess" session. Untrained tasters rated the same organic wines with lower liking scores and were willing to pay less. In conclusion, off-flavours and their unpleasantness worked as a cue to identify wines supposed to be organic by experienced tasters. Their corresponding higher valorization could be explained by the psychological halo effect induced by the organic label. Contrarily, consumers did not show this halo effect, depreciating wines with unpleasant flavours irrespective of their mode of production.
消费者对有机葡萄酒接受度的驱动因素尚未得到充分理解。特别是在葡萄酒专业人士中，有传闻称消费者会接受一些异味，如果这些葡萄酒是传统生产的，这些异味是不会被容忍的。因此，本研究的目的是通过由来自几个国家的经验丰富的人员组成的品尝小组对两种生产类型的葡萄酒进行盲品，以进一步阐明这个问题。品尝的葡萄酒既有传统的也有有机的，有异味和没有异味的都有。同样的葡萄酒在三个品尝环节中进行评估，给出的信息分别是：（1）所有葡萄酒都是传统的，（2）所有葡萄酒都是有机的，（3）要求品尝者猜测生产方式。一组未经训练的品尝者也在一个知情环节中对同样的有机葡萄酒进行了评分。结果表明，在“有机”环节中，葡萄酒的得分明显更高，并且被赋予了更高的支付意愿价值。此外，经验丰富的品尝小组列出了最常见的感官描述词。当要求品尝者猜测生产方式时，本应是有机的葡萄酒被提及有更多异味，如“氧化的”、“还原的”和“动物/灌木丛味”。此外，在“猜测”环节中，不愉快的总体情绪反应与对有机葡萄酒的认知有关。未经训练的品尝者对同样的有机葡萄酒的喜爱评分较低，并且愿意支付的价格也较低。总之，异味及其不愉快感成为经验丰富的品尝者识别本应是有机葡萄酒的线索。它们相应的更高价值可以通过有机标签引发的心理光环效应来解释。相反，消费者没有表现出这种光环效应，无论生产方式如何，都会贬低有不愉快味道的葡萄酒。
