David Olivier R P
Institut Lavoisier, UMR8180, Université de Versailles Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, Université Paris-Saclay, 45 avenue des Etats-Unis, 78035, Versailles, France.
Chemistry. 2020 Jun 18;26(34):7537-7555. doi: 10.1002/chem.202000577. Epub 2020 Apr 21.
Musk odorants are ubiquitous in fine perfumery as well as household products, and are divided into four main families, the nitromusks, the macrocyclic musks, the polycyclic aromatic musks, and the alicyclic musks, following their order of appearance on the perfumery market. This article presents the scientific and industrial adventures during the discovery of the seven commercial polycyclic musks, which invigorated the aroma chemistry corporations during the second half of the 20th century, resulting in relentless competition. Research and development strategies are exposed, and reactivity, analytical, mechanistic, and structure-activity relationships aspects are discussed as well as some biographical elements of the main scientific actors, and some fine perfumery examples are given as illustrations of their use.
麝香气味剂在高级香水以及家居用品中无处不在，根据它们在香水市场上出现的先后顺序，可分为四个主要类别：硝基麝香、大环麝香、多环芳烃麝香和脂环麝香。本文介绍了七种商业多环麝香发现过程中的科学与产业历程，这些麝香在20世纪下半叶活跃了香料化学公司，引发了激烈竞争。文中揭示了研发策略，讨论了反应性、分析、机理以及构效关系等方面，还介绍了主要科学参与者的一些生平事迹，并给出了一些高级香水的例子来说明它们的用途。
