URD Agro-Biotechnologies Industrielles (ABI), CEBB, AgroParisTech, 51110 Pomacle, France.
IRCM, Inserm, Univ Montpellier, ICM, 208 Avenue des Apothicaires, CEDEX 5, 34298 Montpellier, France.
Molecules. 2020 May 6;25(9):2178. doi: 10.3390/molecules25092178.
Faced with the ban of some organic UV filters such as octinoxate or avobenzone, especially in Hawaii, it became essential to offer new alternatives that are both renewable and safe for humans and the environment. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules displaying interesting UV filter properties and great (photo)stability has been developed from Meldrum's acid and bio-based and synthetic -hydroxycinnamic acids, furans and pyrroles. Moreover, -hydroxycinnamic acid-based Meldrum's derivatives possess valuable secondary activities sought by the cosmetic industry such as antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties. The evaluation of the properties of mixture of judiciously chosen Meldrum's acid derivatives highlighted the possibility to modulate secondary activity while maintaining excellent UV protection. Meldrum's acid derivatives are not only competitive when benchmarked against organic filters currently on the market (i.e., avobenzone), but they also do not exhibit any endocrine disruption activity.
面对一些有机紫外线滤光剂(如奥克立林或阿伏苯宗)的禁用,特别是在夏威夷,提供既可再生又对人类和环境安全的新替代品变得至关重要。在这种情况下,一类显示出有趣的紫外线滤光性能和极好的(光)稳定性的基于生物的分子已经从 Meldrum 酸和生物基及合成的 -羟基肉桂酸、呋喃和吡咯中开发出来。此外,基于 -羟基肉桂酸的 Meldrum 酸衍生物具有化妆品行业所寻求的有价值的次要活性,如抗氧化和抗酪氨酸酶活性。精心选择的 Meldrum 酸衍生物混合物性能的评估突出了在保持优异的紫外线保护的同时调节次要活性的可能性。Meldrum 酸衍生物不仅在与目前市场上的有机滤光剂(如阿伏苯宗)进行基准比较时具有竞争力,而且它们也没有表现出任何内分泌干扰活性。