Crocco Elisete Isabel, Bonifácio Evellin Barbosa, Facchini Gustavo, da Silva Gustavo Henrique, da Silva Michelle Sabrina, Pinheiro Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves, Avelar Paula Voltarelli Franco, Eberlin Samara
Santa Casa Medical and Hospital School, Dermatologic Clinic, São Paulo, Brazil.
FQM Farmoquímica S/A, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jan;20(1):360-365. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13503. Epub 2020 Jun 1.
Excessive androgenesis in the skin promotes sebaceous hyperproduction which is the onset of acne vulgaris pathogenesis. Free fatty acids and lipid accumulation in the glandular infundibulum culminates in microbiota imbalance, triggering inflammatory response and follicular hyperkeratinization.
The purpose of this work was to present an alternative cosmetic treatment for acne skin care, focusing on the prevention of sebaceous gland dysregulation.
Insulin-stimulated human sebocytes were treated with noncytotoxic concentrations of a DTRW cosmetic formulation. After 6 days of incubation, cell lysates were collected for testosterone, 5α-reductase, and dyhidrotestosterone (DHT) quantitation. In parallel, cells were stained with Oil Red O to measure sebum production.
Human sebocytes were incubated with insulin to mimic a seborrheic microenvironment with overproduction of intracellular lipids and fatty acids. Concomitant incubation of cell cultures with DRTW was able to promote a 52.97% reduction in intracellular lipid content. The anti-androgenic properties of DRTW had been proved by the reductions of testosterone (↓59.90%), 5α reductase (↓59.34%), and DHT (↓55.98%) levels in sebocyte cultures also stimulated with insulin.
The results indicate a promising action of DRTW cosmetic formulation in preventing the development of acne lesions by mechanisms involving the modulation of cutaneous androgenesis and consequently the control of sebum overproduction, considered one of the leading causes of acne.
皮肤中雄激素生成过多会促进皮脂腺过度分泌,这是寻常痤疮发病机制的起始环节。腺漏斗中游离脂肪酸和脂质积累最终导致微生物群失衡,引发炎症反应和毛囊过度角化。
本研究旨在提出一种用于痤疮皮肤护理的替代性美容治疗方法,重点在于预防皮脂腺功能失调。
用无细胞毒性浓度的一种DRTW化妆品配方处理胰岛素刺激的人皮脂腺细胞。孵育6天后,收集细胞裂解物以定量检测睾酮、5α-还原酶和双氢睾酮(DHT)。同时,用油红O对细胞进行染色以测量皮脂分泌。
将人皮脂腺细胞与胰岛素一起孵育,以模拟细胞内脂质和脂肪酸过度产生的脂溢性微环境。细胞培养物与DRTW共同孵育能够使细胞内脂质含量降低52.97%。DRTW的抗雄激素特性已通过在同样用胰岛素刺激的皮脂腺细胞培养物中睾酮(降低59.90%)、5α-还原酶(降低59.34%)和DHT(降低55.98%)水平的降低得到证实。
结果表明DRTW化妆品配方通过调节皮肤雄激素生成从而控制皮脂过度分泌(痤疮的主要病因之一)的机制,在预防痤疮病变发展方面具有良好的作用。