Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc., Skillman, NJ, USA.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Oct;42(5):444-451. doi: 10.1111/ics.12644. Epub 2020 Aug 25.
The loss of structural elastin due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing results in the skin's inability to stretch and recoil (decrease in elasticity) and manifests as loss of skin firmness and sagging. While other extracellular matrix (ECM) components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid are continually synthesized and assembled through life, elastic fibres are not. Elastic fibre assembly and functionality require fibre cross-linking, induced by the lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) enzymes, which sharply decrease during ageing.
To evaluate the enhanced elastogenic effect of a blackberry-dill extract combination, which was hypothesized to induce elastin fibre component synthesis, fibre cross-linking and reduce elastin fibre degradation.
The blackberry and the dill extracts were tested separately and in combination to confirm single ingredient bioactivity and synergistic benefits. Human skin explants, dermal fibroblasts, elastase assays, ELISAs, quantitative real-time PCRs and spectrofluorometer measurements were used. Moreover, a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out to assess skin elasticity using Cutometer and histologically from biopsies.
The blackberry extract induced elastin gene expression, elastin promoter activity and inhibited elastic fibre degradation by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 9 and 12. The dill extract induced elastin, collagen and LOXL1 gene expression, resulting in enhanced fibre cross-linking in human skin explants. Clinically, the blackberry and dill combination treatment displayed synergistic pro-elasticity activity as compared to each ingredient alone and placebo.
Taken together, these results demonstrated the two multimodal plant-based extracts complemented each other in terms of bioactivity and resulted in a synergistic elastogenesis induction.
由于内在和外在的衰老,结构弹性蛋白的丧失导致皮肤无法伸展和回弹(弹性降低),表现为皮肤紧致度和下垂的丧失。虽然其他细胞外基质 (ECM) 成分,如胶原蛋白和透明质酸,在整个生命周期中不断合成和组装,但弹性纤维并非如此。弹性纤维的组装和功能需要纤维交联,这是由赖氨酰氧化酶样 (LOXL) 酶诱导的,而这些酶在衰老过程中急剧减少。
评估黑莓-莳萝提取物组合的增强弹性生成效果,该组合被假设可以诱导弹性纤维成分的合成、纤维交联并减少弹性纤维降解。
分别测试黑莓和莳萝提取物的单独和组合,以确认单一成分的生物活性和协同效益。使用人体皮肤外植体、真皮成纤维细胞、弹性酶测定、ELISA、定量实时 PCR 和分光荧光计测量。此外,还进行了一项双盲、安慰剂对照的临床研究,使用皮肤弹性测定仪和组织学从活检评估皮肤弹性。
黑莓提取物诱导弹性蛋白基因表达、弹性蛋白启动子活性,并抑制基质金属蛋白酶 (MMP) 9 和 12 对弹性纤维的降解。莳萝提取物诱导弹性蛋白、胶原蛋白和 LOXL1 基因表达,导致人皮肤外植体中的纤维交联增强。临床研究中,黑莓和莳萝组合治疗与单一成分和安慰剂相比,显示出协同的促弹性作用。
综上所述,这些结果表明这两种多模式植物提取物在生物活性方面相互补充,并且协同诱导弹性生成。