Tafuro Giovanni, Costantini Alessia, Baratto Gianni, Francescato Stefano, Semenzato Alessandra
Department of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences, University of Padua, via Francesco Marzolo 5, 35131 Padua, Italy.
Unired S.r.l., Spin-off University of Padua, via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padua, Italy.
ACS Omega. 2020 Jun 15;5(25):15280-15289. doi: 10.1021/acsomega.0c01306. eCollection 2020 Jun 30.
The natural cosmetics market is growing, in line with the interest of public opinion on environmental safety. The availability of polysaccharides for cosmetic use is very wide; each raw material has its own sensorial specificities and hardly matches the performance of synthetic polymers. We developed an instrumental protocol based on rheology and texture analysis to evaluate alternatives to acrylic polymers. The study has been carried out on a set of water dispersions prepared with different synthetic, semisynthetic, and natural polymers at different concentrations. Using statistical principal component analysis, three different clusters have been identified: group A includes polymers with a stringy viscoelastic behavior, group B includes polymers with low firmness and a weak-gel rheological pattern, and group C includes polymers which formed soft and elastic gels. This work showed that this instrumental approach is a powerful tool to comprehensively characterize new rheological modifiers and to forecast their contribution to the formulation based on their applicative features. Moreover, rheology and texture analysis turned out to be complementary tools useful to compare polymeric raw materials and to identify appropriate alternatives to synthetic ones in order to formulate green cosmetic products.
天然化妆品市场正在不断发展，这与公众舆论对环境安全的关注相一致。用于化妆品的多糖种类繁多；每种原材料都有其独特的感官特性，很难与合成聚合物的性能相匹配。我们开发了一种基于流变学和质地分析的仪器方法，以评估丙烯酸聚合物的替代品。该研究针对一组用不同合成、半合成和天然聚合物在不同浓度下制备的水分散体进行。通过统计主成分分析，识别出三个不同的类别：A组包括具有丝状粘弹性行为的聚合物，B组包括硬度低且具有弱凝胶流变模式的聚合物，C组包括形成柔软弹性凝胶的聚合物。这项工作表明，这种仪器方法是全面表征新型流变改性剂并根据其应用特性预测它们对配方贡献的有力工具。此外，流变学和质地分析被证明是互补的工具，有助于比较聚合物原料并识别合成原料的合适替代品，从而配制绿色化妆品。
