Abou-Dahech Mariam, Schaefer Allison, Lam-Phaure Laura, Huynh A N, Chandler Mark, Baki Gabriella
Department of Pharmacy Practice, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Toledo, Toledo, OH 43614 (M.A., A.S., L.L.-P., A.H.,G.B.), ACT Solutions Corp, Newark, DE 19713 (M.C.).
J Cosmet Sci. 2020 May/Jun;71(3):149-165.
Solvents play an essential role in the performance of ultraviolet (UV) filters. The goal of this study was to understand how the sun protection factor (SPF) and broad-spectrum protection of three organic UV filters (homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) and a combination of these are influenced by solvents. Twenty-four solvents were selected based on the ingredient active gap for testing. Mixtures of UV filters and solvents were formulated, and SPF, wavelength of maximum absorbance, broad-spectrum protection, and spreadability were evaluated. Results indicate that SPF of organic sunscreens can be significantly enhanced by solvents. Relying on solubility data only was not found to be a good approach in this study. The most efficient solvents shared multiple similar structural characteristics, including ester bonds, conjugated structure, aromatic rings, and -CN groups; however, the absence of some of these structural elements did not necessarily prevent a solvent from being a booster. The wavelength of maximum absorbance was significantly shifted in the UVA range by most solvents, whereas minimal or no shift was observed in the UVB range. Results of this study provide practical information that can guide sunscreen formulators in selecting solvents for UV filters and making more effective sunscreens.
溶剂在紫外线(UV)滤光剂的性能中起着至关重要的作用。本研究的目的是了解三种有机紫外线滤光剂(胡莫柳酯、乙基己基水杨酸酯和丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷)及其组合的防晒系数(SPF)和广谱防护如何受到溶剂的影响。根据成分活性差距选择了24种溶剂进行测试。配制了紫外线滤光剂和溶剂的混合物,并对SPF、最大吸收波长、广谱防护和铺展性进行了评估。结果表明,溶剂可显著提高有机防晒霜的SPF。在本研究中,仅依靠溶解度数据并不是一个好方法。最有效的溶剂具有多个相似的结构特征,包括酯键、共轭结构、芳环和-CN基团;然而,缺少其中一些结构元素并不一定能阻止一种溶剂成为增效剂。大多数溶剂使最大吸收波长在UVA范围内发生显著偏移,而在UVB范围内观察到的偏移最小或没有偏移。本研究结果提供了实用信息,可指导防晒霜配方师为紫外线滤光剂选择溶剂并制备更有效的防晒霜。