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生态太阳通行证:一种用于评估防晒霜产品中使用的紫外线滤光剂的环保友好性的工具。

EcoSun Pass: A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products.

机构信息

BASF SE, GBP/RA, Z 570, Ludwigshafen, Germany.

BASF Grenzach GmbH, EMR/CU, Global Development UV Protection/Scientific Liaisons, Grenzach-Wyhlen, Germany.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):201-210. doi: 10.1111/ics.12681. Epub 2021 Jan 20.

Abstract

OBJECTIVE

Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light-induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high-quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA-PF).

METHODS

For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU-approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool.

RESULTS

The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters.

CONCLUSION

These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens.

摘要

目的

防晒霜在欧盟防晒策略中起着重要作用,以防止人类受到紫外线引起的皮肤损伤。近年来,人们对高质量防晒霜产品的需求增加,包括防晒范围广、光稳定性好、在人体皮肤上涂抹性好、使用前后感官性能好等方面。同时考虑到环境方面。防晒霜是复杂的组合物,紫外线滤光剂是配方中的关键要素,在最终产品中的含量高达约 30%。然而,其中一些成分可能被认为对水生环境有害。尽管如此,水生生态系统仅代表一个单一的环境舱室,可能会受到紫外线滤光剂的影响。因此,开发了生态阳光通行证(ESP)工具,以评估紫外线滤光剂与其功效(防晒系数,SPF 和 UVA 保护系数,UVA-PF)相结合的整体环境影响。

方法

为此,首先评估了欧盟批准用于防晒霜的 24 种紫外线滤光剂的环境危害概况。使用 ESP 工具评估了代表 SPF30 和 50 的 9 种紫外线滤光剂示例组合的生态友好性。

结果

结果表明,四种 SPF30 组合物中有两种被认为是生态友好的。同样,从 SPF50 中,有两种也符合生态友好型的标准。此外,结果表明,大多数生态友好型示例配方在产品中也具有最低的整体紫外线滤光剂含量,这是基于使用高度创新和危害最小的紫外线滤光剂。

结论

这些结果表明,该工具适用于市场上存在的各种配方,因此可以选择最生态友好和高效的紫外线滤光剂用于防晒霜。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/dd07/8248045/7babefa50b66/ICS-43-201-g001.jpg

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