Joubert Lanae M, Gonzalez Gina Blunt, Larson Abigail J
Exercise Science Laboratory, School of Health and Human Performance, Northern Michigan University, Marquette, MI, United States.
Exercise Science Laboratory, Department of Kinesiology, Health and Imaging Sciences, Morehead State University, Morehead, KY, United States.
Front Sports Act Living. 2020 Jul 24;2:86. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2020.00086. eCollection 2020.
Disordered eating (DE) is characterized as a range of irregular eating patterns or behaviors, which may lead to pathological eating or a clinical eating disorder diagnosis. DE patterns are associated with a variety of negative health outcomes. The prevalence of DE is highest in female athletes who participate in aesthetic or weight dependent sports. Elite rock climbers tend to be strong, small and lean, but the prevalence of DE in rock climbers is unknown. The purpose of the present study was to assess DE prevalence in a large group of international rock climbers and to explore the relationship between sport rock climbing ability and DE. A web-based survey assessed both DE (Eating Attitudes Test-26) and climbing ability based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association's position statement on comparative grading scales. The survey was distributed to international climbing communities; 810 individuals attempted the survey; 604 completed all questions; 498 identified as sport lead climbers. The majority of sport lead climbers were lower grade/intermediate (57.8%), compared to advanced (30.7%) and elite/higher elite (11.4%), and male (76.9%). Forty-three sport lead climbers reported a score of 20 or above on the EAT-26 indicating an 8.6% prevalence of DE in this sample. Male climbers had a DE prevalence of 6.3% (24 of 383) and female climbers more than doubled that with 16.5% (19 of 115). Chi-square analysis revealed that DE was associated with climbing ability level [χ2 (2, = 498, 8.076, = 0.02)], and when analyzed by sex, only the female climbers had a significant relationship of DE with climbing ability [χ2 (2, = 115, 15.640, = 0.00)]. These findings suggest sport lead rock climbers are not immune to DE and that the risk is elevated in female climbers, particularly at the elite/high elite climbing ability level. Our research indicates further investigations are warranted to determine if and how disordered eating behaviors affect health and performance of adult rock climbers.
饮食失调（DE）的特征是一系列不规律的饮食模式或行为，这可能导致病理性饮食或临床饮食失调诊断。饮食失调模式与多种负面健康结果相关。饮食失调在参加审美或依赖体重项目的女运动员中最为普遍。优秀的攀岩者往往身材强壮、小巧且 lean，但攀岩者中饮食失调的患病率尚不清楚。本研究的目的是评估一大群国际攀岩者中的饮食失调患病率，并探讨竞技攀岩能力与饮食失调之间的关系。一项基于网络的调查评估了饮食失调（饮食态度测试-26）和基于国际攀岩研究协会关于比较分级量表的立场声明的攀岩能力。该调查分发给了国际攀岩社区；810人尝试了该调查；604人完成了所有问题；498人被认定为竞技先锋攀岩者。与高级（30.7%）和精英/更高精英（11.4%）相比，大多数竞技先锋攀岩者为较低等级/中级（57.8%），且男性占比（76.9%）。43名竞技先锋攀岩者在EAT-26上的得分报告为20分或以上，表明该样本中饮食失调的患病率为8.6%。男性攀岩者的饮食失调患病率为6.3%（383人中的24人），而女性攀岩者的患病率则超过两倍，为16.5%（115人中的19人）。卡方分析显示，饮食失调与攀岩能力水平相关[χ2（2，=498，8.076，=0.02）]，按性别分析时，只有女性攀岩者的饮食失调与攀岩能力存在显著关系[χ2（2，=115，15.640，=0.00）]。这些发现表明竞技先锋攀岩者并非对饮食失调免疫，且女性攀岩者的风险更高，尤其是在精英/更高精英攀岩能力水平。我们的研究表明，有必要进一步调查以确定饮食失调行为是否以及如何影响成年攀岩者的健康和表现。
