Tang Jie, He Hailun, Wan Ruoyu, Yang Qi, Luo Heng, Li Li, Xiong Lidan
Cosmetics Safety and Efficacy Evaluation Center, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu 610041, Sichuan, P. R. China.
Sichuan Engineering Technology Research Center of Cosmetic, Chengdu 610041, Sichuan, P. R. China.
ACS Omega. 2021 Jan 15;6(4):2906-2915. doi: 10.1021/acsomega.0c05257. eCollection 2021 Feb 2.
Most of the foundation liquids in the market need makeup removers for cleaning, while the excessive use of makeup removers might lead to skin barrier damage, which would further lead to many kinds of dermatosis, such as skin sensitivity, facial telangiectasia, rosacea, acne, as well as various cosmetic contact dermatitis. Inspired by the protective effect of fiber-rich diet on the intestinal mucosal mechanical barrier, a novel hemp/cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs)-based foundation liquid featuring easy-wiping property has been constructed, which will effectively solve the post-makeup skin cleaning problems. In this experiment, the formula of the foundation liquid can be obtained through hemp/CNCs instead of mineral oil and titanium oxide, which are considered to have undesirable local tolerance, sensitizing potential, and are environmental pollutants, to create a moisture barrier. Industrial hemp is a hot issue in cosmetic research, and a great quantity of discarded industrial hemp stalk is available to be used to produce hemp/CNCs through grinding and acidification. The graft technique is adapted to obtain hemp/CNCs--polylactic acid (PLA). By replacing the hydroxyl group on the side of hemp/CNCs, hemp/CNCs--PLA reduces the intermolecular hydrogen bonding, resulting in a higher dispersion in the oil phase. The hemp/CNCs--PLA has excellent performance in terms of biological compatibility, water resistance, and non-penetration into the skin. With basic features of a foundation liquid to alleviate discoloration, age spots, and skin roughness, the foundation liquid based on hemp/CNCs--PLA provides a novel characteristic of easy-wiping, which helps to avoid the damage to the skin barrier caused by excessive cleansing.
市面上的大多数粉底液卸妆时都需要使用卸妆产品，而过度使用卸妆产品可能会导致皮肤屏障受损，进而引发多种皮肤病，如皮肤敏感、面部毛细血管扩张、酒渣鼻、痤疮以及各种化妆品接触性皮炎。受富含纤维的饮食对肠道黏膜机械屏障的保护作用启发，一种具有易擦拭特性的新型大麻/纤维素纳米晶体（CNCs）基粉底液被研制出来，它将有效解决化妆后皮肤清洁问题。在本实验中，粉底液配方可通过大麻/CNCs取代被认为具有不良局部耐受性、致敏潜力且属于环境污染物的矿物油和二氧化钛来获得，以形成保湿屏障。工业大麻是化妆品研究中的一个热门课题，大量废弃的工业大麻茎可通过研磨和酸化用于生产大麻/CNCs。采用接枝技术获得大麻/CNCs - 聚乳酸（PLA）。通过取代大麻/CNCs一侧的羟基，大麻/CNCs - PLA减少了分子间氢键，从而在油相中具有更高的分散性。大麻/CNCs - PLA在生物相容性、耐水性和不渗透皮肤方面具有优异性能。基于大麻/CNCs - PLA的粉底液具有减轻色素沉着、老年斑和皮肤粗糙等粉底液的基本特性，还具有易擦拭的新特性，有助于避免过度清洁对皮肤屏障造成的损害。
