Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Medical Molecular Diagnostics, Guangdong Medical University, Dongguan, China.
Institute of High Energy Physics, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2021;34(4):194-202. doi: 10.1159/000514496. Epub 2021 Apr 13.
Skin aging usually leads to the excessive deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix, loss of antimicrobial function, loss of skin barrier function, and a series of inflammatory processes. Bioactive peptides have been widely used in cosmetics due to their protective effects on skin and efficient absorption. Combination of different peptides may lead to synergistic or antagonistic effects, so different formulas need to be designed and tested properly. In this study, 5 functional cosmeceutical peptides were tested on their individual and mixed activities to detect a suitable anti-aging and protective formula from our experiments. After the individual activity test, the optimal concentration is 200 μg/mL of carnosine for the superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, 200 μg/mL of GHK peptide for the hydroxyproline (HYP) content activity, 100 μg/mL of acetyl tetrapeptide-5 for the angiotensin-converting enzyme 1 activity, 400 μg/mL of hexapeptide-11 for the HYP content activity, and 400 μg/mL of acetyl hexapeptide-3 for the catecholamine content activity. According to the optimal concentration of these 5 cosmeceutical peptides, 6 formulations of peptide mixtures were designed and tested for their anti-aging activities and protective effects against hydrogen peroxide-induced premature senescence in human skin fibroblasts. One of the cosmeceutical peptide mixtures (carnosine + acetyl tetrapeptide-5 + hexapeptide-11 + acetyl hexapeptide-3) significantly reduced the intracellular malondialdehyde and hydroxyl free radical contents and increased the HYP and human elastin contents as well as the enzymatic activities of SOD and glutathione peroxidase. Our study suggests that this formula of cosmeceutical peptide mixtures could be a promising agent for use in anti-aging and protective cosmetics.
皮肤衰老通常导致真皮细胞外基质过度恶化、丧失抗菌功能、丧失皮肤屏障功能和一系列炎症过程。由于对皮肤具有保护作用且吸收效率高，生物活性肽已被广泛应用于化妆品中。不同肽的组合可能会产生协同或拮抗作用，因此需要适当设计和测试不同的配方。在这项研究中，对 5 种功能性美容肽进行了单独和混合活性测试，以从我们的实验中检测出合适的抗衰老和保护配方。在进行单独的活性测试后，肉毒碱的最佳浓度为 200μg/mL 时对超氧化物歧化酶 (SOD) 活性、200μg/mL 的 GHK 肽对羟脯氨酸 (HYP) 含量活性、100μg/mL 的乙酰四肽-5 对血管紧张素转化酶 1 活性、400μg/mL 的六肽-11 对 HYP 含量活性和 400μg/mL 的乙酰六肽-3 对儿茶酚胺含量活性最佳。根据这 5 种美容肽的最佳浓度，设计并测试了 6 种肽混合物配方，以评估其对人皮肤成纤维细胞中过氧化氢诱导的过早衰老的抗衰老活性和保护作用。其中一种美容肽混合物（肉毒碱+乙酰四肽-5+六肽-11+乙酰六肽-3）显著降低了细胞内丙二醛和羟基自由基含量，增加了 HYP 和人弹性蛋白含量以及 SOD 和谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶的酶活性。我们的研究表明，这种美容肽混合物配方可能是一种有前途的抗衰老和保护化妆品用剂。
