Interdepartmental Laboratory of Peptide and Protein Chemistry and Biology, Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health-Section of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Nutraceutics, University of Florence, 50019, Sesto Fiorentino, Firenze, Italy.
Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Faculty of Chemistry, Wroclaw University of Science and Technology, 50-370, Wroclaw, Poland.
Chem Biodivers. 2021 Feb;18(2):e2000833. doi: 10.1002/cbdv.202000833. Epub 2021 Jan 22.
Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.
如今，融合了化妆品和制药学的美容护肤行业是一个备受关注的研究领域，因为人们越来越要求对新型美容护肤品成分的宣称生物活性进行科学论证。事实上，将传统化妆品与美容护肤品区分开来的一个方面是识别和表征活性成分，并证明其在宣称的活性中的功效。一组有趣的生物活性美容护肤品成分是肽，由于其特殊的性质，满足了美容护肤品行业在组成新配方时提出的大多数要求。在这种情况下，除了生物活性之外，在将肽作为美容护肤品成分使用时，最近还考虑了另外两个方面：生物利用度和稳定性。我们在此描述了为提高肽的皮肤渗透性和稳定性而应用的新方法，同时查阅了美容护肤领域发表的科学文章和专利。
