Wang Xiaoling, Heraud Sandrine, Thepot Amelie, Dos Santos Morgan, Luo Zhen
Infinitus Company Ltd, Guangzhou, People's Republic of China.
LabSkin Creations, Edouard Herriot Hospital, Lyon, France.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021 May 27;14:561-573. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S302997. eCollection 2021.
Ultraviolet (UV) rays are the major environmental factor that damage skin physiology causing deleterious effects such as oxidation, photoaging and pigmentation. There has been considerable interest in using botanicals to prevent skin damages caused by UV irradiation.
In this study, three plant extracts were tested either individually or combined together (mixture) as well as their corresponding main active compound: pomegranate/punicalagin, osmanthus/verbascoside and olive/hydroxytyrosol. We evaluated the whitening and anti-photoaging properties of the nutritional mixture using 2D human culture model and a 3D full-thickness pigmented skin model exposed to UVB and UVA.
For exploring skin pigmentation, oxidation and aging, we performed cell viability, tyrosinase activity and melanin content assays as well as histology analysis (Whartin-Starry staining), immunodetection (PMEL, MDA, collagen type I and elastin) and carbonylated proteins analysis by electrophoresis separation.
Results showed that the pomegranate extract and the active molecule punicalagin could reduce the tyrosinase activity and melanin content in melanocytes (P < 0.05). The mixture, pomegranate extract and punicalagin inhibited the melanin production and pre-melanosomal protein (PMEL) expression in the 3D skin pigmented model (P < 0.001). Furthermore, the mixture treatment repaired the expressions of collagen I and elastin decrease by UV exposure (P < 0.01). The mixture also significantly decreased lipid peroxidation (P < 0.001) and carbonylated proteins (P < 0.05) in the skin model compared to the UV-exposed condition.
To conclude, the mixture composed of pomegranate, osmanthus and olive extracts protects human skin from UV rays deleterious effects and exhibits antioxidative, anti-aging and skin whitening properties. Our data suggested pomegranate contributed to the whitening properties of the mixture notably through its main active compound, punicalagin. The mixture might be a good candidates for further development as natural antioxidant and skin care product.
紫外线是损害皮肤生理机能、导致氧化、光老化和色素沉着等有害影响的主要环境因素。人们对使用植物提取物预防紫外线辐射引起的皮肤损伤有着浓厚兴趣。
在本研究中,对三种植物提取物单独使用、混合使用以及它们相应的主要活性化合物进行了测试:石榴/石榴皮素、桂花/毛蕊花糖苷和橄榄/羟基酪醇。我们使用二维人体培养模型和暴露于中波紫外线(UVB)和长波紫外线(UVA)的三维全层色素沉着皮肤模型,评估了该营养混合物的美白和抗光老化特性。
为探究皮肤色素沉着、氧化和老化情况,我们进行了细胞活力、酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素含量测定,以及组织学分析(沃辛-斯塔里染色)、免疫检测(前黑素小体蛋白(PMEL)、丙二醛(MDA)、I型胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白)和通过电泳分离进行的羰基化蛋白质分析。
结果表明,石榴提取物和活性分子石榴皮素可降低黑素细胞中的酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素含量(P<0.05)。该混合物、石榴提取物和石榴皮素在三维皮肤色素沉着模型中抑制了黑色素生成和前黑素小体蛋白(PMEL)表达(P<0.001)。此外,混合物处理修复了紫外线照射导致的I型胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白表达下降(P<0.01)。与紫外线暴露条件相比,该混合物在皮肤模型中还显著降低了脂质过氧化(P<0.001)和羰基化蛋白质(P<0.05)。
总之,由石榴、桂花和橄榄提取物组成的混合物可保护人体皮肤免受紫外线的有害影响,并具有抗氧化、抗老化和皮肤美白特性。我们的数据表明,石榴尤其通过其主要活性化合物石榴皮素对混合物的美白特性有贡献。该混合物可能是进一步开发为天然抗氧化剂和护肤品的良好候选物。