Chen Juanjuan, Liu Yang, Zhao Zhao, Qiu Jie
L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Oct;43(5):495-509. doi: 10.1111/ics.12728. Epub 2021 Aug 28.
Skin, our first interface to the external environment, is subjected to oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors such as solar ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, environmental pollution, including ozone and particulate matters, and psychological stress. Excessive reactive species, including reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species, exacerbate skin pigmentation and aging, which further lead to skin tone unevenness, pigmentary disorder, skin roughness and wrinkles. Besides these, skin microbiota are also a very important factor ensuring the proper functions of skin. While environmental factors such as UV and pollutants impact skin microbiota compositions, skin dysbiosis results in various skin conditions. In this review, we summarize the generation of oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. We further introduce current knowledge on the possible roles of oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and aging, specifically with emphasis on oxidative stress and skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, we summarize the science and rationale of using three well-known antioxidants, namely vitamin C, resveratrol and ferulic acid, in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Finally, we discuss the strategy for preventing oxidative stress-induced skin pigmentation and aging.
皮肤是我们与外部环境的首个界面,会受到多种因素引起的氧化应激影响,如太阳紫外线、红外线和可见光、包括臭氧和颗粒物在内的环境污染以及心理压力。过量的活性物质,包括活性氧和活性氮,会加剧皮肤色素沉着和衰老,进而导致肤色不均、色素紊乱、皮肤粗糙和皱纹。除此之外,皮肤微生物群也是确保皮肤正常功能的一个非常重要的因素。虽然紫外线和污染物等环境因素会影响皮肤微生物群的组成,但皮肤生态失调会导致各种皮肤问题。在这篇综述中,我们总结了外源性和内源性氧化应激的产生。我们进一步介绍了目前关于氧化应激在皮肤色素沉着和衰老中可能作用的知识,特别强调氧化应激与皮肤色素沉着。同时,我们总结了使用三种著名抗氧化剂,即维生素C、白藜芦醇和阿魏酸治疗色素沉着的科学依据。最后,我们讨论了预防氧化应激诱导的皮肤色素沉着和衰老的策略。