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大气性皮肤老化——促成因素与抑制因素

Atmospheric skin aging-Contributors and inhibitors.

作者信息

McDaniel David, Farris Patricia, Valacchi Giuseppe

机构信息

McDaniel Laser and Cosmetic Center and McDaniel Institute of Anti-Aging Research, Virginia Beach, VA, USA.

Hampton University Skin of Color Research Institute, Hampton, VA, USA.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Apr;17(2):124-137. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12518.

Abstract

Cutaneous aging is a complex biological process consisting of 2 elements: intrinsic aging, which is primarily determined by genetics, and extrinsic aging, which is largely caused by atmospheric factors, such as exposure to sunlight and air pollution, and lifestyle choices, such as diet and smoking. The role of the solar spectrum, comprised of ultraviolet light, specifically UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400) in causing skin damage, including skin cancers, has been well documented. In recent years, the contribution of visible light (400-700 nm) and infrared radiation (above 800 nm) in causing skin damage, similar to the photodamage caused by UV light, is also being elucidated. In addition, other atmospheric factors such as air pollution (smog, ozone, particulate matter, etc.) have been implicated in premature skin aging. The skin damage caused by environmental exposure is largely attributable to a complex cascade of reactions inside the skin initiated by the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which causes oxidative damage to cellular components such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids. These damaged skin cells initiate inflammatory responses leading to the eventual damage manifested in chronically exposed skin. Novel therapeutic strategies to combat ROS species generation are being developed to prevent the skin damage caused by atmospheric factors. In addition to protecting skin from solar radiation using sunscreens, other approaches using topically applied ingredients, particularly antioxidants that penetrate the skin and protect the skin from within, have also been well documented. This review summarizes current knowledge of atmospheric aggressors, including UVA, UVB, visible light, infrared radiation (IR), and ozone on skin damage, and proposes new avenues for future research in the prevention and treatment of premature skin aging caused by such atmospheric factors. New therapeutic modalities currently being developed are also discussed.

摘要

皮肤老化是一个复杂的生物学过程,由两个因素组成:内在老化,主要由遗传决定;外在老化,主要由大气因素引起,如阳光照射和空气污染,以及生活方式选择,如饮食和吸烟。太阳光谱由紫外线组成,特别是UVB(290 - 320纳米)和UVA(320 - 400纳米),其在导致皮肤损伤(包括皮肤癌)方面的作用已有充分记录。近年来,可见光(400 - 700纳米)和红外辐射(800纳米以上)在引起皮肤损伤方面的作用,类似于紫外线引起的光损伤,也正在被阐明。此外,其他大气因素如空气污染(烟雾、臭氧、颗粒物等)也与皮肤过早老化有关。环境暴露引起的皮肤损伤很大程度上归因于皮肤内由活性氧(ROS)生成引发的一系列复杂反应,这会对蛋白质、脂质和核酸等细胞成分造成氧化损伤。这些受损的皮肤细胞引发炎症反应,最终导致长期暴露皮肤出现损伤。正在开发对抗ROS生成的新型治疗策略,以预防大气因素引起的皮肤损伤。除了使用防晒霜保护皮肤免受太阳辐射外,其他使用局部应用成分的方法,特别是能渗透皮肤并从内部保护皮肤的抗氧化剂,也已有充分记录。本综述总结了当前关于大气侵害因素(包括UVA、UVB、可见光、红外辐射(IR)和臭氧)对皮肤损伤的认识,并提出了未来研究预防和治疗此类大气因素引起的皮肤过早老化的新途径。还讨论了目前正在开发的新治疗方法。

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