CIEL Co., Ltd, Kanagawa, Japan.
School of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Tokyo University of Technology, Tokyo, Japan.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Dec;43(6):764-771. doi: 10.1111/ics.12743. Epub 2021 Nov 9.
The purpose of this study was to clarify the impact of protein carbonylation on the chemical characteristics of the hair surface focusing on hydrophobicity.
First, we examined the validity of methods to evaluate hydrophobicity, one that utilizes the fluorescence of 1-anilinonaphtalene-8-sulfonic acid (1,8-ANS) compared with the contact angles against H O, of the hair surface chemically modified by alkaline hydrolysis or treated with stearyl ammonium chloride. We measured hairs bleached with H O or treated with acrolein for fluorescence originating from 1,8-ANS, for the contact angle and for changes of functional groups, aldehydes (the degree of carbonylation), NH , COOH and SH, using fluorescence labelling methods.
The fluorescence intensity of 1,8-ANS of the hair surface modified chemically correlated well with the contact angles against H O. The results indicated that 1,8-ANS is suitable for evaluating the hydrophobicity of the hair surface. The hydrophobicity of hairs bleached with H O or carbonylated with acrolein was decreased. In addition, changes of functional groups in hairs carbonylated with acrolein increased as did those of hairs bleached with H O .
The results suggest that the carbonylation of proteins at the hair surface with aldehydes decreases hydrophobicity and promotes further damage as does bleaching.
本研究旨在阐明蛋白质羰基化作用对毛发表面化学特性的影响，重点关注疏水性。
首先，我们检验了评估疏水性的方法的有效性，该方法利用 1-苯胺基萘-8-磺酸（1,8-ANS）的荧光与毛发表面经碱性水解或硬脂基氯化铵处理后的 H 2 O 接触角进行比较。我们测量了经 H 2 O 漂白或丙烯醛处理的毛发的荧光起源于 1,8-ANS 的荧光强度、接触角以及功能基团、醛（羰基化程度）、NH 、COOH 和 SH 的变化，使用荧光标记方法。
化学修饰后的毛发表面的 1,8-ANS 荧光强度与 H 2 O 的接触角密切相关。结果表明，1,8-ANS 适合评估毛发表面的疏水性。经 H 2 O 漂白或丙烯醛羰基化处理的毛发疏水性降低。此外，与经 H 2 O 漂白的毛发相比，丙烯醛羰基化处理的毛发的功能基团变化增加。
这些结果表明，醛与毛发表面蛋白质的羰基化作用降低了疏水性，并促进了进一步的损伤，就像漂白一样。
