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光谱衡定——理想防晒剂的基本要求。

Spectral Homeostasis - The Fundamental Requirement for an Ideal Sunscreen.

机构信息

The Sunscreen CompanyTM, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

Division of Dermatology, Faculty of Medicine, University of Ottawa, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

出版信息

Curr Probl Dermatol. 2021;55:72-92. doi: 10.1159/000517593. Epub 2021 Oct 25.

DOI:10.1159/000517593
PMID:34698022
Abstract

Sunscreen application to UV-exposed skin is promoted to prevent skin cancer and sun damage, within a comprehensive photoprotection strategy that also includes sun avoidance and wearing UV protective clothing. The benefits of sunscreen are verified in preventing sunburn but appear to be largely presumptive in skin cancer prevention. Contemporary science establishes UVA as a primary driver of melanoma and photoaging. Consequentially, the traditional UVB-skewed protection of sunscreens provides an intellectual and logical explanation for rising skin cancer rates and, in particular, their failure to protect against melanoma. Better protection could be achieved with more balanced UVB/UVA sunscreens, toward spectral homeostasis protection. Greater balanced protection has another advantage of attenuating fewer UVB rays, which aid synthesis of vitamin D and nitric oxide. Percutaneous absorption of Soluble Organic UV Filters leads to systemic exposure, which becomes the relevant safety consideration. It is minimized by selecting Insoluble UV Filters with low absorption potential from a molecular weight above 500 Da. The filters must also be very hydrophilic, very lipophilic, or consist of particles. The risk-benefit ratio is a medical imperative, more so for cosmetics or sunscreens, since in principle there should be no risk from their use. The production of ideal sunscreens that mimic the effective, balanced UVB/UVA attenuation of textiles and shade is now possible, while maintaining an acceptable therapeutic margin of safety in humans and a favorable ecologic profile. Sunscreens with a favorable risk-benefit ratio and good esthetic properties or other consumer-friendly attributes will improve compliance and may achieve substantial clinical benefits.

摘要

防晒霜涂抹在暴露于紫外线的皮肤上,以预防皮肤癌和太阳损伤,这是一种综合的光保护策略的一部分,该策略还包括避免阳光直射和穿着紫外线防护服装。防晒霜在预防晒伤方面的益处已得到验证,但在预防皮肤癌方面似乎主要是推测性的。当代科学证实 UVA 是黑色素瘤和光老化的主要驱动因素。因此,防晒霜对 UVB 的传统偏向保护为不断上升的皮肤癌发病率提供了一种智力和逻辑上的解释,特别是它们未能预防黑色素瘤。通过使用更平衡的 UVA/UVB 防晒霜来实现更好的保护,以实现光谱平衡保护。更大的平衡保护还有另一个优点,即可以减少更少的 UVB 射线,这些射线有助于维生素 D 和一氧化氮的合成。可溶性有机紫外线滤光剂的经皮吸收会导致全身暴露,这成为相关的安全考虑因素。通过从分子量大于 500 Da 的物质中选择具有低吸收潜力的不溶性紫外线滤光剂,可以将其最小化。这些滤光剂还必须具有很强的亲水性、亲脂性或由颗粒组成。风险效益比是医学上的必要条件,对于化妆品或防晒霜来说更是如此,因为从原则上讲,它们的使用不应带来任何风险。现在可以生产出模仿纺织品和阴影有效、平衡的 UVA/UVB 衰减的理想防晒霜,同时在人类中保持可接受的治疗安全边际和有利的生态特征。具有良好风险效益比和良好美学特性或其他消费者友好属性的防晒霜将提高依从性,并可能实现显著的临床益处。

相似文献

1
Spectral Homeostasis - The Fundamental Requirement for an Ideal Sunscreen.光谱衡定——理想防晒剂的基本要求。
Curr Probl Dermatol. 2021;55:72-92. doi: 10.1159/000517593. Epub 2021 Oct 25.
2
Optimal sunscreen use, during a sun holiday with a very high ultraviolet index, allows vitamin D synthesis without sunburn.在紫外线指数极高的阳光度假期间,合理使用防晒霜可在不晒伤的情况下促进维生素D的合成。
Br J Dermatol. 2019 Nov;181(5):1052-1062. doi: 10.1111/bjd.17888. Epub 2019 May 24.
3
Sunscreens.防晒霜。
Adv Exp Med Biol. 2014;810:429-63. doi: 10.1007/978-1-4939-0437-2_25.
4
Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature.防晒霜与光老化:现有文献综述。
Am J Clin Dermatol. 2021 Nov;22(6):819-828. doi: 10.1007/s40257-021-00632-5. Epub 2021 Aug 13.
5
Sunscreens - which and what for?防晒霜——哪种及用于何种情况?
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005 Nov-Dec;18(6):253-62. doi: 10.1159/000087606. Epub 2005 Aug 19.
6
Rising trends in melanoma. An hypothesis concerning sunscreen effectiveness.黑色素瘤的上升趋势。关于防晒霜有效性的一种假说。
Ann Epidemiol. 1993 Jan;3(1):103-10. doi: 10.1016/1047-2797(93)90017-x.
7
A review of sunscreen safety and efficacy.防晒产品安全性与功效综述。
Photochem Photobiol. 1998 Sep;68(3):243-56.
8
Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status.防晒霜的光保护作用与维生素 D 状况。
Br J Dermatol. 2019 Nov;181(5):916-931. doi: 10.1111/bjd.17992. Epub 2019 Jul 15.
9
Benefit and risk of organic ultraviolet filters.有机紫外线过滤剂的益处与风险。
Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2001 Jun;33(3):285-99. doi: 10.1006/rtph.2001.1476.
10
Performance Metrics of Sunscreen Formulations: In Vitro and In Vivo Techniques.防晒霜配方的性能指标:体外和体内技术。
Curr Probl Dermatol. 2021;55:124-132. doi: 10.1159/000517657. Epub 2021 Oct 25.

引用本文的文献

1
Comparison between endocrine activity assessed using ToxCast/Tox21 database and human plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients/UV filters.使用 ToxCast/Tox21 数据库评估内分泌活性与防晒霜活性成分/紫外线滤光剂的人体血浆浓度比较。
Toxicol Sci. 2023 Oct 30;196(1):25-37. doi: 10.1093/toxsci/kfad082.
2
[Characterization of sun protection performance: Quo vadis?].[防晒性能的表征:何去何从?]
Hautarzt. 2022 Apr;73(4):276-282. doi: 10.1007/s00105-022-04958-x. Epub 2022 Mar 25.