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光谱衡定——理想防晒剂的基本要求。

Spectral Homeostasis - The Fundamental Requirement for an Ideal Sunscreen.

机构信息

The Sunscreen CompanyTM, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

Division of Dermatology, Faculty of Medicine, University of Ottawa, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

出版信息

Curr Probl Dermatol. 2021;55:72-92. doi: 10.1159/000517593. Epub 2021 Oct 25.

Abstract

Sunscreen application to UV-exposed skin is promoted to prevent skin cancer and sun damage, within a comprehensive photoprotection strategy that also includes sun avoidance and wearing UV protective clothing. The benefits of sunscreen are verified in preventing sunburn but appear to be largely presumptive in skin cancer prevention. Contemporary science establishes UVA as a primary driver of melanoma and photoaging. Consequentially, the traditional UVB-skewed protection of sunscreens provides an intellectual and logical explanation for rising skin cancer rates and, in particular, their failure to protect against melanoma. Better protection could be achieved with more balanced UVB/UVA sunscreens, toward spectral homeostasis protection. Greater balanced protection has another advantage of attenuating fewer UVB rays, which aid synthesis of vitamin D and nitric oxide. Percutaneous absorption of Soluble Organic UV Filters leads to systemic exposure, which becomes the relevant safety consideration. It is minimized by selecting Insoluble UV Filters with low absorption potential from a molecular weight above 500 Da. The filters must also be very hydrophilic, very lipophilic, or consist of particles. The risk-benefit ratio is a medical imperative, more so for cosmetics or sunscreens, since in principle there should be no risk from their use. The production of ideal sunscreens that mimic the effective, balanced UVB/UVA attenuation of textiles and shade is now possible, while maintaining an acceptable therapeutic margin of safety in humans and a favorable ecologic profile. Sunscreens with a favorable risk-benefit ratio and good esthetic properties or other consumer-friendly attributes will improve compliance and may achieve substantial clinical benefits.

摘要

防晒霜涂抹在暴露于紫外线的皮肤上,以预防皮肤癌和太阳损伤,这是一种综合的光保护策略的一部分,该策略还包括避免阳光直射和穿着紫外线防护服装。防晒霜在预防晒伤方面的益处已得到验证,但在预防皮肤癌方面似乎主要是推测性的。当代科学证实 UVA 是黑色素瘤和光老化的主要驱动因素。因此,防晒霜对 UVB 的传统偏向保护为不断上升的皮肤癌发病率提供了一种智力和逻辑上的解释,特别是它们未能预防黑色素瘤。通过使用更平衡的 UVA/UVB 防晒霜来实现更好的保护,以实现光谱平衡保护。更大的平衡保护还有另一个优点,即可以减少更少的 UVB 射线,这些射线有助于维生素 D 和一氧化氮的合成。可溶性有机紫外线滤光剂的经皮吸收会导致全身暴露,这成为相关的安全考虑因素。通过从分子量大于 500 Da 的物质中选择具有低吸收潜力的不溶性紫外线滤光剂,可以将其最小化。这些滤光剂还必须具有很强的亲水性、亲脂性或由颗粒组成。风险效益比是医学上的必要条件,对于化妆品或防晒霜来说更是如此,因为从原则上讲,它们的使用不应带来任何风险。现在可以生产出模仿纺织品和阴影有效、平衡的 UVA/UVB 衰减的理想防晒霜,同时在人类中保持可接受的治疗安全边际和有利的生态特征。具有良好风险效益比和良好美学特性或其他消费者友好属性的防晒霜将提高依从性,并可能实现显著的临床益处。

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