Associate Laboratory i4HB-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal.
UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):56-73. doi: 10.1111/ics.12754. Epub 2021 Dec 14.
Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.
A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.
Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.
This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.
敏感性皮肤的特征是对不应引起不适感觉的刺激物产生自我报告的感觉感知。用于敏感皮肤的化妆品旨在最大限度地减少这些症状。本研究旨在揭示药房和药妆渠道中用于敏感皮肤的面部护理产品中最常用的活性成分。
分析了来自药房和药妆渠道的一组产品，这些产品的标签包括“敏感皮肤”、“反应性皮肤”或“不耐受皮肤”等表述。从产品成分中识别出活性成分，并按出现频率降序排列。还编译了关于每种成分的作用机制和功效的科学证据。
共纳入了 19 个跨国品牌的 88 种产品。烟酰胺位居榜首，其次是燕麦、尿囊素、甘草酸及其衍生物和裙带菜。用于减少皮肤炎症和作用于皮肤屏障的成分在分析的产品中超过一半。关于这些产品中使用的活性成分的临床研究仍然很少，缺乏方法学质量。在顶级成分中，只有烟酰胺、泛醇和乙酰二肽-1 鲸蜡酯在有敏感皮肤的志愿者身上进行了研究，而乙酰二肽-1 鲸蜡酯和棕榈酰三肽-8 旨在作用于涉及这种情况的分子靶点。
本研究揭示了用于敏感皮肤的化妆品中最常用的活性成分，以及支持其功效和作用机制的科学证据。这一见解对于皮肤科医生和其他健康专业人员根据有敏感皮肤的个体的症状提供个性化建议，以及为化妆品产品的配方和新活性成分的设计提供了有意义的参考。
